tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89016469006484355692024-03-21T10:09:43.499-05:00Electronic DiversionsSome electronic projects...current...and old/odd.bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.comBlogger209125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-74029726976566355032023-02-22T10:13:00.010-06:002023-02-23T07:50:57.321-06:00Icom IC-7300 with SDRplay RSPduo as panadapter - digital mode settings<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_p_q2nBXRLGh-B1K95TPCXk2sXIdjdDdaf7xdJUjLUY09O0zOqiMA8ieJJD0msDoHXk1dVtyVmuOCcuB-4zTvppfxR_ondUZXmBcnBUbwP3rfy8it_IBRx0YDNdTG9PQExISrJWmoPYpqDEKYNHtipUkmYu7sNMFFkJRwKLOgKj9KK3j4SJb_NMQphg/s3621/7300-flrig-fldigi-sdruno-com0com.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="3621" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_p_q2nBXRLGh-B1K95TPCXk2sXIdjdDdaf7xdJUjLUY09O0zOqiMA8ieJJD0msDoHXk1dVtyVmuOCcuB-4zTvppfxR_ondUZXmBcnBUbwP3rfy8it_IBRx0YDNdTG9PQExISrJWmoPYpqDEKYNHtipUkmYu7sNMFFkJRwKLOgKj9KK3j4SJb_NMQphg/w639-h189/7300-flrig-fldigi-sdruno-com0com.png" width="639" /></a></div><p><br /></p> There is already a ton of information on the <a href="https://www.radioanalog.com/ptrx-7300/" target="_blank">PTRX-7300</a> panadapter I got for the IC-7300 from <a href="https://www.radioanalog.com/ptrx-7300/" target="_blank">RadioAnalog</a>. I have a <a href="https://www.sdrplay.com/rspduo/" target="_blank">RSPduo</a> attached to it. (in the screenshots I had hooked up a <a href="https://www.sdrplay.com/rsp2pro/">RSP2Pro</a> for testing) Also there is lots of info on using the USB port on the 7300 for CAT.<p></p><p>I am just going to list my settings...because it was a ton of pain to figure it out from conflicting info.</p><p>SDR software - <a href="https://www.sdrplay.com/softwarehome/" target="_blank">SDRuno</a> (works with the RSPduo and their other products)</p><p>Digital applications in use - <a href="https://winlink.org/WinlinkExpress">Winlink Express</a>, <a href="https://rosmodem.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Vara HF</a>, <a href="http://www.w1hkj.com/">FLdigi</a>, <a href="https://wsjt.sourceforge.io/wsjtx.html" target="_blank">WSJT-X</a>, <a href="http://js8call.com/" target="_blank">JS8Call</a></p><p>System: IC-7300, panadapter, <a href="https://www.sdrplay.com/rspduo/" target="_blank">RSPduo</a>, Win10.</p><p>Basics:</p><p><a href="http://dxatlas.com/omnirig/" target="_blank">Omni-Rig</a> and <a href="https://sourceforge.net/p/com0com/wiki/Home/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span></a> software for the various apps to connect to the other software/hardware. Some programs need <span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span>, some need Omni-Rig. Apparently the 7300 does not support RTS/DTR.</p><p>SDRuno to interface with the RSPduo and control everything.</p><p>In all cases, once you correctly point to Omni-Rig or <span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span>/SDRuno your app should immediately start showing the radio frequency and the 7300 as well as SDRuno should match...if not, then go back to the basics. Do the Test Cat/ Test PTT if possible...or just try to send a message.</p><p><b>AUDIO:</b> Luckily this is the same for all apps...the Icom creates two "USB Audio CODEC" devices...one is a Microphone, and one is Speakers. The preceding number may be different than my screen shots, but they will say (USB Audio CODEC) in the name. Mine say (3- USB Audio CODEC)</p><p>BTW, Winlink Express was the hardest, followed closetly by FLdigi...WSJT-X was the easiest.</p><p>If you are using different SDR software...as long as it sees Omni-Rig and can create a virtual CAT port...these instructions should work for you.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Omni-Rig</b>: Software to interface many apps to your radio.</p><p>Install normally and point to the Com Port the Icom is using.</p><p>-NOTE: the radio has two baud rates in the Set > Connectors > CI-V section.</p><p>--1: CI-V Baud Rate = 19200</p><p>--2: CI-V USB Baud Rate = 115200</p><p>In Omni-Rig use the CI-V USB Baud Rate...in my example 115200. Screenshot below is from my working system.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGMw-uEVz_jvusHHvCRE3nbzZuvnjiRJ4R1EvPag150x1wnGuVPKs3iQqOLlKGrBw3ZVivDk8LmmHKGCEHexTZQpVVTVxSyojzWBhytPmyT-NOL8L5GsytS0D8H_Zcw9BbzZK_m6XLlGs9BZDVRXFRZxT-2OevAXeMXxTzTPMaNjxW5zDL0Awn03-zQ/s416/Omnirig.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="416" data-original-width="245" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGMw-uEVz_jvusHHvCRE3nbzZuvnjiRJ4R1EvPag150x1wnGuVPKs3iQqOLlKGrBw3ZVivDk8LmmHKGCEHexTZQpVVTVxSyojzWBhytPmyT-NOL8L5GsytS0D8H_Zcw9BbzZK_m6XLlGs9BZDVRXFRZxT-2OevAXeMXxTzTPMaNjxW5zDL0Awn03-zQ/s320/Omnirig.png" width="188" /></a></div><br /><p><b><span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span></b>: creates virtual com port pairs...allowing devices to interface with each other, if they can't use Omni-Rig.</p><p>I only needed the one default port pair. In my case COM3 and COM11</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7WKZDzq4asI6oCaAgOGc9zJM2YvGy1svadVKd99YZuZPGU8pRk2oPWIFqcKv92Qz_gHFoInThevl3ALrCKWKyp316YVeKMJbUzNU3UHgeqEWgQJkNeTRZ4eKJdUUN9qSU1i7pwBJiPQRhrE8YQoan9I7nARZiYGeHyiBmh3HsNOOcyqfo3gtP30fOw/s447/com0com.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="393" data-original-width="447" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7WKZDzq4asI6oCaAgOGc9zJM2YvGy1svadVKd99YZuZPGU8pRk2oPWIFqcKv92Qz_gHFoInThevl3ALrCKWKyp316YVeKMJbUzNU3UHgeqEWgQJkNeTRZ4eKJdUUN9qSU1i7pwBJiPQRhrE8YQoan9I7nARZiYGeHyiBmh3HsNOOcyqfo3gtP30fOw/s320/com0com.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><b>SDRuno</b>: Can use Omni-Rig AND create a virtual radio com port for other apps to attach to.</p><p>--1: enable <i><b>RSYN1</b></i> which lets SDRuno attach to Rig1 on Omni-Rig. Once you click that this software and the radio should match frequency.</p><p>--2: Enable &Connect the CAT (in the RX Control Settings)</p><p>-This is how my software looks.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30uRp_SO82zfE-Q5_aS6zPiaQt72fDRUe_nJ2-y_JUh9xYtuPoALa5geiohYiTjmyHJX1A6RliFiTlIIxZSoEU4tdNEipQdHqnOkmePWKLJZuh2H6rEeLAS7zTB_nCUXqCr3xKvHyiPaFh8daSb7Qg_aE8nQS98Io8Zc0W_0pUFEe0i-WTayDb2UDiw/s626/sdruno-cat.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="322" data-original-width="626" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30uRp_SO82zfE-Q5_aS6zPiaQt72fDRUe_nJ2-y_JUh9xYtuPoALa5geiohYiTjmyHJX1A6RliFiTlIIxZSoEU4tdNEipQdHqnOkmePWKLJZuh2H6rEeLAS7zTB_nCUXqCr3xKvHyiPaFh8daSb7Qg_aE8nQS98Io8Zc0W_0pUFEe0i-WTayDb2UDiw/w499-h257/sdruno-cat.png" width="499" /></a></div><br /><p>--NOTE: In my example SDRuno creates COM11...so all the appropriate apps need to connect to COM3 (created by <span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span>)</p><p>-- Also it simulates a Kenwood...normally a TS-2000...but you will see it is pretty generic.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Winlink Express with VARA HF</b></p><p>--1: set up correct SoundCard on the main Vara HF window.</p><p>--2: In Vara HF Winlink Settings there is no TS-2000...so I chose the TS-890S and seems to work fine. Note Com port matches <span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span> and the baud matches SDRuno, and I put the TS-890S in the PTT Port also.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMZbG4gBIv-tIlQNOrifSdp-e2sbSQKDVsNEcSpvlp0KInFuSG4BatBy7ta02tTM81TjOiO55hWRNFokTLlZTJwQyWi29quvYh2_TdLJSI6w9Xt15lHQHErTX6_dZfE52wyIu_s1qv7lG29vLCmHT5zq8ZSascwMGAotXBZkm1rPcnBBovR_EyIskig/s1872/7300-winlink-sdruno-com0com.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1872" height="327" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMZbG4gBIv-tIlQNOrifSdp-e2sbSQKDVsNEcSpvlp0KInFuSG4BatBy7ta02tTM81TjOiO55hWRNFokTLlZTJwQyWi29quvYh2_TdLJSI6w9Xt15lHQHErTX6_dZfE52wyIu_s1qv7lG29vLCmHT5zq8ZSascwMGAotXBZkm1rPcnBBovR_EyIskig/w609-h327/7300-winlink-sdruno-com0com.png" width="609" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b>FLdigi</b>:</p><p>--1: Need to use FLrig. TS-2000 for the radio, Com from <span style="font-family: times;">com0com</span>, baud from SDRuno. The rest of the FLrig settings don't seem to matter...but this was my best guess.</p><p>--2: In FLdigi chose flrig for rig control (checkmark box in the flrig setting) and set up the audio.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilPmq7eYKozajeGKe2CXcxpbcgPo3uXZy-IWJEGiFf5jfGHEtADSAwPMf-boakoM8YJgG7Md01ANbWdrzHzNpYkyy52IvnQEI59PXyq4HJxPIqV0Pj0lrHDt21ncd-AsRPji-rS4KJUdlntGxaMMHTK3spiL5SQy4h_-2JGw_RoWX3JxQ1fGzKdFVqlQ/s1651/7300-flrig-fldigi-sdruno-com0com-crop.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="1651" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilPmq7eYKozajeGKe2CXcxpbcgPo3uXZy-IWJEGiFf5jfGHEtADSAwPMf-boakoM8YJgG7Md01ANbWdrzHzNpYkyy52IvnQEI59PXyq4HJxPIqV0Pj0lrHDt21ncd-AsRPji-rS4KJUdlntGxaMMHTK3spiL5SQy4h_-2JGw_RoWX3JxQ1fGzKdFVqlQ/w584-h330/7300-flrig-fldigi-sdruno-com0com-crop.png" width="584" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b>WSJT-X</b>:</p><p>-1: of course this is the easiest one...just choose OmniRig Rig 1 (if using RIG1 for your radio) as the radio. (the screen shot below shows far too many uses of the word Rig...)</p><p>-2: same sound card settings as all the rest. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioU-FM-QBWTrRN1qe7bpb1fCFxXCaDQZlytfMNf3rkXYVl0RFIfg00hmQ1RR73f8vEKAsEUzbNk9CaQJJlvcaxFmOaM9mVq98AE0WVXdO0mslrgjL4pNF4hvYGUtTazDhNxEvANBBwl9Wt2ykrracGFgOyE_LrzY0uTii9n_PL74E-8qtb5yUHJX3Uaw/s1006/7300-wsjtx-sdruno-omnirig.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="1006" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioU-FM-QBWTrRN1qe7bpb1fCFxXCaDQZlytfMNf3rkXYVl0RFIfg00hmQ1RR73f8vEKAsEUzbNk9CaQJJlvcaxFmOaM9mVq98AE0WVXdO0mslrgjL4pNF4hvYGUtTazDhNxEvANBBwl9Wt2ykrracGFgOyE_LrzY0uTii9n_PL74E-8qtb5yUHJX3Uaw/w604-h385/7300-wsjtx-sdruno-omnirig.png" width="604" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b>JS8Call</b>:</p><p>'should' be just as easy as WSJT-X.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnf8cq6HuDDEMAQhCPV1er1yHOjRSLOfS2BLTjJDeZuXlcoN1XL5U0WLjWNGKRw4EjZLbE-5wFASFJN5hicNVxfQCe8Vn_PkNqOFo3kkluhMALCtp2ez-CT8JRvWzCaCAL9vV2jbzY1NLC5m4Q7VkE2qVuci_UCdGbzJSyYNIbxwm0qM_p8k2lHEM4OA/s2025/7300-js8call-sdruno-omnirig-crop.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="2025" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnf8cq6HuDDEMAQhCPV1er1yHOjRSLOfS2BLTjJDeZuXlcoN1XL5U0WLjWNGKRw4EjZLbE-5wFASFJN5hicNVxfQCe8Vn_PkNqOFo3kkluhMALCtp2ez-CT8JRvWzCaCAL9vV2jbzY1NLC5m4Q7VkE2qVuci_UCdGbzJSyYNIbxwm0qM_p8k2lHEM4OA/w615-h329/7300-js8call-sdruno-omnirig-crop.png" width="615" /></a></div><br /><p>NOTE: In this screen shot I hadn't yet clicked "Test CAT" So the Freq hasn't matched yet.</p><p><br /></p><p>If I add more...they will be tacked on here.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-50084911580566067722020-12-09T22:02:00.003-06:002020-12-10T07:10:25.917-06:00Link SIP phone throuhgh PBX to Allstar Node.<p> I honestly have no idea why someone would want to do this...but I done it anyway... making a PBX so I could do all the things made some sense...linking the PBX (asterisk) to the <a href="https://www.allstarlink.org/" target="_blank">Allstar</a> node (asterisk) seems ridiculous.</p><p><br /></p><p>So here is how to do it. (this is more of a quick and dirty reference rather than a walk through explaining everything)<br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Background...in 2018 <a href="https://bubbazanetti.blogspot.com/2018/04/" target="_blank">I built an Allstar Node using a cheap radio and a Raspberry Pi</a>. My access to control it was either DTMF on the radio, or logging in using the built in web page.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also a couple of years ago I got a <a href="https://hamshackhotline.com/" target="_blank">Hamshack Hotline</a> number and had that on my SIP phone.</p><p><br /></p><p>(some other things were done...time passed) </p><p><br /></p><p>And just now I built a PBX using Incredible PBX on a Raspberry Pi.</p><p><br /></p><p>So obviously I would link the Allstar node to the PBX. Trust me, there are much more advanced set ups that folks have done with Asterisk and radios...Such as <a href="https://www.jeffreykopcak.com/ham-radio/k8jtk-hub-digital-voip-mutimode-interlink-system/" target="_blank">K8JTK's multimode hub</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p>Anywho it took a day of pain and watching error screens before I got the solution...and the first verified solution did not work at all...maybe I typo'd something, but it was wrong.</p><p><br /></p><p>This won't be full of info, because it is pretty simple...it is just the terminology that is difficult.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you built a PBX then you know some of these terms already.</p><p><br /></p><p>Big picture is Allstar uses Asterisk to do all the heavy work, the DTMF controls the hub linking etc.</p><p>Incredible PBX (FreePBX) ALSO uses Allstar for all the heavy lifting...it just has a pretty GUI to make admin easier.</p><p><br /></p><p>What we will do is connect two peer Asterisk servers. Allstar <-> Incredible PBX</p><p><br /></p><p>To do that we will Trunk them together using the IAX protocols.</p><p>That means, on Incredible PBX we will ADD a IAX Trunk.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you already have the Allstar node, then you are already used to editing the various .conf files.</p><p><br /></p><p>We will edit two of them. <b>iax.conf</b> and <b>extensions.conf </b> (if you were to connect a SIP phone to the Allstar node directly you would edit sip.conf and externsions.conf. SIP for phone, IAX for server)</p><p><br /></p><p><b>IAX.conf </b>is basically the 'add IAX Trunk' for the folks that like using the linux terminal.</p><p></p><blockquote>[<b>pbx2_to_pbx1</b>}<br />host=(IP address of PBX2 goes here)<br />username=<b><i>pbx1_to_pbx2</i></b><br />secret=UseALongPasswordNumbersLike1234AreOk<br />type=friend<br />disallow=all<br />allow=ulaw<br /><br />[<b><i>pbx1_to_pbx2</i></b>]<br />host= (IP address of PBX1 goes here)<br />username=<b>pbx2_to_pbx1</b><br />secret=UseALongPasswordNumbersLike1234AreOk<br />type=friend<br />context=<b>radio-control</b><br />disallow=all<br />allow=ulaw</blockquote><br />So those two matching entries are the Trunk entries or IAX.conf entries, depending on which device you are working on. The HUGE hint is to look at the name in [brackets] that is the TRUNK name. Note also that the OPPOSITE machine uses that TRUNK name as USERNAME and vice versa. That lets the two Trunks to talk to each other.<p></p><p>Not understanding that, and following the wrong instructions took a day to figure out.</p><p><br /></p><p>You will note in my screenshots that I didn't put all that stuff in it...but the important takeaway is the relation of the "Trunk Name" in the OUTGOING section of the Trunk entry to the username of the Trunk in the machine you want to link to.</p><p><br /></p><p>The other edit required is in the <b>extensions.conf </b> again note the name in [brackets] it has to match the "<b>context</b>=" value in the Allstar node <b>IAX.conf</b>.</p><p><br /></p><p>So how does it work? I select the same extension I am using for GV, punch in my Allstar node number, the PBX connects my phone to the Allstar node. From there I punch in the codes to connect to outside nodes...or just listen to what is coming over my node. I haven't done any speed dials etc yet...<br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Some links.</p><p><a href="https://w2ymm.home.blog/allstar-howto/#BM4" target="_blank">I used this to make the extensions.conf</a></p><p><a href="https://mangolassi.it/topic/18700/how-to-set-up-an-iax2-trunk-in-freepbx" target="_blank">Here is where I learned the correct format for the iax.conf/Trunk entries </a><br /></p><p>Some screenshots. <br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6w5owkJHB1_CWySadMapZkXoYmFlKr4P2jEAZccdu4uux3CyoUe2bsAMFCHEqcyLMeyz-I3H_MvSJZDjZ8Cw6NbPuJMfrEOfrC-IDh3GbY0kIS4wmgfTPT6GEAC3_xIu9X3a9dArK0dL/s1374/allstarnode-trunk1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="927" data-original-width="1374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6w5owkJHB1_CWySadMapZkXoYmFlKr4P2jEAZccdu4uux3CyoUe2bsAMFCHEqcyLMeyz-I3H_MvSJZDjZ8Cw6NbPuJMfrEOfrC-IDh3GbY0kIS4wmgfTPT6GEAC3_xIu9X3a9dArK0dL/s320/allstarnode-trunk1.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiQujrkYxfK-FTTmX-Vo27WOVNaLG4X7szv4VwYeY-hHS2mOlIVmoWj8xnBfQMn6AeKPWBQoYYJuFSOWi6iCemY56vKVQMJyrDHXcovN1qsdIHwfma-NdvBFQCcISdZHqtp0woWZwezAlp/s1021/allstarnode-trunk2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="1021" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiQujrkYxfK-FTTmX-Vo27WOVNaLG4X7szv4VwYeY-hHS2mOlIVmoWj8xnBfQMn6AeKPWBQoYYJuFSOWi6iCemY56vKVQMJyrDHXcovN1qsdIHwfma-NdvBFQCcISdZHqtp0woWZwezAlp/s320/allstarnode-trunk2.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUz5J6lVZn2T-hfvx1x3W3L_Ai4Qh_pbWTaWXk6QJ5EDm7m_DShUIfWRu77ky0g84b9Pt43pDWOs7coxaZYw33DQ_tE6GarA9zShFmkTCzCDHBNlKyVQ128hyphenhyphenB2v26wauNnDRxdAmkI1H/s1021/allstarnode-trunk3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="1021" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUz5J6lVZn2T-hfvx1x3W3L_Ai4Qh_pbWTaWXk6QJ5EDm7m_DShUIfWRu77ky0g84b9Pt43pDWOs7coxaZYw33DQ_tE6GarA9zShFmkTCzCDHBNlKyVQ128hyphenhyphenB2v26wauNnDRxdAmkI1H/s320/allstarnode-trunk3.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-49997535641850508462020-12-07T20:56:00.002-06:002020-12-07T21:29:55.161-06:00GoogleVoice through Obi200 to IncrediblePBX (FreePBX) on a Pi4 (part3) <p>Parts one and two had to do with setting up the Obi and Phones.</p><p>It doesn't matter in what order, I think it makes more sense to me in this order.</p><p><br /></p><p>The PORTS used depend on what SP you use etc...the screen shots are of mine...if you use a different config, then doublecheck the ports...mine are consistent, so you can start with your Obi and convert from mine to yours.<br /></p><p>Also btw...I removed my GV number from the caller ID spots in the pictures...but it was only in a few places that I should have mentioned...if I didn't mention caller ID, then you probably don't need to put the GV number in...in other words there are blank caller ID spots and filled caller ID spots...I think CID is only need in two spots.<br /></p><p>I will not get into installing Incredible PBX. BTW, if you are googling for help you can use FreePBX also in your search...the menus are the same.</p><p><br /></p><p>This last part is the settings I used to get the PBX to talk to the Obi, For the Phones to talk to the PBX, and for the phones to make calls and ring, and even intercom.</p><p><br /></p><p>First...PBX talks to Obi.</p><p>Log into your Incredible PBX as Admin (when you installed you should have created a new password?)</p><p>We are starting from zero...nothing other than default entries on the PBX.</p><p>After each step, hit submit...when done with a section click the Red button in the upper right that says <span style="color: red;"><b>Apply Config</b></span></p><p> ---------------------------------</p><p>You need a Trunk.</p><p><br /></p><p>Click on <b>Connectivity > Trunks</b></p><p><br /></p><p>There are a ton of Trunks there for using all sorts of VOIP phone services...I am not using those, so I deleted all the trunks.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>+Add Trunk > +Add SIP (chan_sip) Trunk </b> (I could not get anything to work using the pjsip anywhere <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>in my install...just plane old legacy SIP)</p><p><b>General Tab</b> <br /></p><p>Trunk Name = {something useful to you - I used obi200 to match the Obi settings}</p><p>Outbound CallerID = {your Google Voice number}</p><p><b>sip Settings Tab</b></p><p></p><blockquote><b> type=friend<br />defaultuser=obi200<br />secret={password you put into the obi}<br />qualify=yes<br />port=5062<br />nat=yes<br />host=dynamic<br />dtmfmode=rfc2833<br />disallow=all<br />context=from-trunk<br />canreinvite=no<br />allow=ulaw<br />insecure=port,invite<br /><br /></b></blockquote><p></p><p><b> </b>Thats it for <b>Trunks.</b></p><p> ---------------------</p><p> You now need an <b>Outbound Route</b></p><p><b> </b></p><p>Delete any existing Outbound Routes, or you will have a bad time.</p><p><b> </b><br /></p><p><b>Route Settings Tab</b><br /></p><p>Route Name = {something useful to you - I chose OBiOut}</p><p>Route CID = {same Google Voice phone number}</p><p>Trunk Sequence for Matched Routes = {you just built it... obi200 for me}</p><p><b>Dial Patterns Tab</b></p><p>You can try to learn them...or just click the 'Dial patterns wizards' and select all the appropriate ones</p><p> </p><p>Thats it for <b>Outbound Route</b></p><p> -------------------------------</p><p>We will have to do the <b>Extensions</b> before we do anything else...these are the different physical phones (in my case) you want to access the PBX.</p><p> </p><p><b>Applications > Extensions</b></p><p>There will already be a bunch there and you can use them...or roll your own...I rolled my own and did some experiments, so there are some extras there...don't worry about them.</p><p>They are pretty simple.</p><p><b>+Add Extension > +Add New SIP (Legacy)[chan_sip] Extension</b></p><p><br /></p><p>again, I could not make the pjsip extensions work...my phone wouldn't log in, and it wasn't worth it to fight it.</p><p>If you edited your phones and gave them numbers like 201, 202 whatever. you make an Extension for each one.</p><p>In my case I have two, 200 and 201. (ignore the others in the pictures)<br /></p><p>So </p><p><b>General Tab</b><br /></p><p>Extension = 200 {whatever you put in that particular phone}<br /></p><p>Display name = 200 {or whatever you want}<br /></p><p>Secret = {same password as you put in your phone}</p><p>That is all you NEED to do...you can add voicemail etc...that is beyond the scope of this article.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you have made an Extension for each phone...you are done. (BTW the user manager settings are to allow logging into a user dashboard)</p><p>Now I have two <b>Extensions</b>...and probably my phones are showing online...but we aren't done yet.</p><p>------------------<br /></p><p>We want to be able to answer the phone. If you wanted only one phone to ring you would set it up a bit differently from here...</p><p><br /></p><p>...but I want all phones to ring, so I can pick up whatever extension I am near.</p><p> </p><p></p><p>So I need a <b>Ring Group</b></p><p><b> </b></p><p><b>Applications > Ring Groups</b></p><p><b>+ Add Ring Group</b></p><p> Name= {some number, this is considered an extension, I made it 222}</p><p>Group Description = {anything you want, sales, admin, or in my case bothphones}</p><p>Extension List = {all the extensions that are in this particular ring group...in my case both phones, yo</p><p>u <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>can use the <b>User Quick Select</b>. In my case 200 and 201} <br /></p><p>Ring Strategy = {this is awesome...so many choices...but I simply want all the phones to ring <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>simultaneously so... <b>ringall</b>}</p><p>Destination if no answer = {for now I have an extension chosen...but voicemail is probably a good choice...outside the scope of this discussion}<br /></p><p>You are done with ring groups...</p><p>-----------------------------<br /></p><p>NOW time to do the<b> Inbound Routes</b></p><p><b> </b></p><p><b>Connectivity > Inbound Routes</b></p><p>(there should not be any old routes here...if there are, delete them)</p><p><b>+Add Inbound Route</b></p><p>Set Destination = Ring Groups {and select the Ring Group extension you created - in my case 222}</p><p><br /></p><p>That is it for <b>Inbound Routes.</b><br /></p><p>--------------------------------<br /></p><p><b>Bonus section</b><br /></p><p> </p><p>Put all the phones on intercom...</p><p><b>Applications > Paging and Intercom</b></p><p><b>+Add Page Group</b></p><p>Paging Extension = {this is the phone dialpad sequence you type to start the intercom - in my case 22}</p><p>Group Description = {whatever you want}</p><p>Device list = {pulldown - which extensions do you want involved in the paging - for me all of them}</p><p> </p><p>Done with paging. When I select the PBX line (EXT3 on my SPA504) and type 22 on the dialpad, all the phones (both) go on speakerphone and connect to each other.</p><p>----------------------------<br /></p><p>That is everything I modified...and attached are my screen shots in case something doesn't make sense. If it doesn't work, break down WHICH part doesn't work.</p><p><br /></p><p>Some examples...I could phone in and one phone would ring, but I couldn't call out. I had to delete the default (extra) outbound route to get the phone to dial out.</p><p>Only one phone rang during ringall...because one of my phones was not set up to Register on the PBX.</p><p>lines wouldn't connect to the pbx at all...because phones wouldn't use pjsip extensions</p><p>Latest example...one phone could dial voicemail and the other couldn't...the one that couldn't had just XX in the dial plan...it needed to be (*xx|[3469]11|0|00|[2-9]xxxxxx|1xxx[2-9]xxxxxxS0|xxxxxxxxxxxx.)<br /></p><p> </p><p>Pics...lots... hope it helps someone ... Of course there is much more to set up...but this gets your phones working.<br /></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZW-P4B2tGJ1Ds6ppOtkFGUL-iaC3d_cnp0UwlvzyMwOXidIxLzFlmccF7qhkNa5KohEFBIWYIftBBffizoZfTLtbipDPFAyBmil6OrxLLzCg0j_pVWy1wIbOX4qvdwHZ5ZlK1S7k66gUM/s1781/applyconfig.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="170" data-original-width="1781" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZW-P4B2tGJ1Ds6ppOtkFGUL-iaC3d_cnp0UwlvzyMwOXidIxLzFlmccF7qhkNa5KohEFBIWYIftBBffizoZfTLtbipDPFAyBmil6OrxLLzCg0j_pVWy1wIbOX4qvdwHZ5ZlK1S7k66gUM/s320/applyconfig.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheTlFitFU5yr-jRDFo-hreD_uXme8Jr2sDzy4KI6HxhYQlm29EqgjEve3tiNVq1mLOokndS2nqkyLufDsWu4rKnfhnkir4vO7o9gJdUrrpjTd7da_v-9rYr4UCm_R1BiPkl9zz0hKhC62l/s1781/Extensions1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeNrXAAe-edQdTZkwpjvFvqA4IuKe-G5ofzGJ0qIeKks-Wsy2iH3zKeFfAxUMHyOSghYv5mhKzUD1mjCrLPLybTBEsuQzKa1gWurK7Fw51Mw7V6VMR19J0AT4E2yohtNX1_l-R6Ivjlzc/s2048/spa504g-ext3-GVPBX.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1097" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeNrXAAe-edQdTZkwpjvFvqA4IuKe-G5ofzGJ0qIeKks-Wsy2iH3zKeFfAxUMHyOSghYv5mhKzUD1mjCrLPLybTBEsuQzKa1gWurK7Fw51Mw7V6VMR19J0AT4E2yohtNX1_l-R6Ivjlzc/s320/spa504g-ext3-GVPBX.png" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EwR__2eXWH4jnH0jcHY6hSfDq7lwqJ2ePhwOHpgALP-6Boybzp88G4gL2oWbqv_IbRp0HT8tjIhV7vh5hANC3HxmHhAIRYNvWQ8YLFpF_Y7g1b36UufoojZpop_IQeIA0zf2p-BD23iI/s2048/spa525g-ext4-GVPBX.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1168" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EwR__2eXWH4jnH0jcHY6hSfDq7lwqJ2ePhwOHpgALP-6Boybzp88G4gL2oWbqv_IbRp0HT8tjIhV7vh5hANC3HxmHhAIRYNvWQ8YLFpF_Y7g1b36UufoojZpop_IQeIA0zf2p-BD23iI/s320/spa525g-ext4-GVPBX.png" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b> </b><br /></p>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-17994127506516842662020-12-07T19:25:00.004-06:002020-12-08T09:07:26.275-06:00GoogleVoice through Obi200 to IncrediblePBX (FreePBX) on a Pi4 (part1)<p> Long time no post. Been doing stuff...but nothing completed, or worth documenting.</p><p><br /></p><p>However this battle took days and the docs and instructions I found assumed you knew something. (they were wrong).</p><p>BTW...some good links...</p><p><a href="https://wiki.freepbx.org/display/FPG/Configuring+Your+PBX">Documentation on all the settings for FreePBX (Incredible PBX)</a></p><p><a href="https://www.obitalk.com/info/faq/GV-and-the-OBi">Obihai support page</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw8ZZKxsYPw&feature=emb_logo">Obihai support video on how to set up Google Voice on Obi200<br /></a></p><p><a href="http://nerdvittles.com/?p=31977">Nerdvittles article on setting up Incredible PBX on your Pi</a></p><p><a href="https://wiki.debian.org/Exim4Gmail" target="_blank">How to set up your system so email works </a></p><p> <br /></p><p>In summary, I installed the Incredible PBX (using an image) to the Pi4. (I won't get into what a PBX or Asterisk or anything else is...this is simply my settings.)</p><p> </p><p>Right now the only way to use a GoogleVoice phone number is through an Obi device (Polycon?)</p><p>I have an Obi200 that gives me a regular POTS phone line to plug into, but used a VOIP service on the other end...for example Google Voice.</p><p> </p><p>I recently learned how to make an entry to the Obi that would allow a SIP phone (like a Cisco SPA504g) to call and answer on that Google Voice number. (this won't explain that...I will link it)</p><p> </p><p>A few months later I learned that I could take a PBX software, and have it call and answer through the Obi to Google Voice...AND then can have any number of SIP phones attached to it. So instead of one SIP phone...a whole house full of them (if I so desire). </p><p> </p><p>Why would I care? I am already using a SIP phone for things other than my Obi telephone service.</p><p> </p><p>So this string of posts will only involve taking your existing GoogleVoice setup on your Obi200 and pushing it out to IncrediblePBX and from there to SIP phones.</p><p> </p><p>Part 1: I will start with the OBI settings in this post . I don't know exactly why these are the settings...it just works (and some are different than all the tutorials I found) </p><p>Part 2 will cover the phones and part 3 the Incredible PBX settings.</p><p>--------------------------------Danger Ahead-----------------------------</p><p><br /></p><p>If you mess up your existing working Obi...not my fault...but I recommend that before you do this, you make a backup (or like I did, actually take screenshots) so you can put it back.</p><p>Good news is this does not involve editing the Service Provider settings of your existing GoogleVoice install...it does add one thing to the SP service associated with your GoogleVoice install.</p><p>To start, you have to enter the <b>Obi Expert Configuration Menu </b>on the Obi Dashboard (not your local device dashboard)<br /></p><p>We will be working with the following that show on the left menu after you enter expert mode on the Obi<br /></p><p><b>Service Providers</b>: listed as A-D</p><p><b>Voice Services</b>: listed as SP1-SP4 and some other stuff</p><p>I will try to list my setup, so you can modify to fit your setup.<br /></p><p> <b>Service Providers</b>:</p><p>ITSP Profile B is my Google Voice main inbound service - we will not edit this.</p><p>ITSP Profile C is unused, I will connect my PBX to this profile<br /></p><p><b>Voice Services</b>: <br /></p><p>SP2 Service is for Google Voice main inbound service - tiny edit here</p><p>SP3 Service is unused, I will my PBX will use this service</p><p><br /></p><p>Obi is at 192.168.11.32 <br /></p><p>PBX is at 192.168.11.45</p><p>One cisco phone is at .33 and one is at .35 </p><p><br /></p><p>To edit the Obi Expert Menu, you have to uncheck OBiTALK Settings, and then uncheck Device Default...sometimes you have to 'submit' there to go further...IDK.<br /></p><p>Edits---</p><p><b>Service Providers > </b></p><p><b>ITSP Profile C General</b></p><p>-<b>General </b><br /></p><p>Name = {whatever you want}</p><p>-<b>Service Provider Info</b></p><p>Name ={same as above}</p><p>URL = {PBX ip address}</p><p> </p><p><b>ITSP Profile C SIP</b><br /></p><p>ProxyServer = {PBX ip address}</p><p>RegistrarServer = {PBX ip address}</p><p>OutboundProxy = {PBX ip address}</p><p> ...</p><p>X_SpoofCallerID {uncheck Obitalk settings and Device default, check Value)<br /></p><p>X_DiscoverPublicAddress {uncheck all}</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Voice Services > </b></p><p><b>SP2 Service</b></p><p><b>-Enable <br /></b></p><p>X_InboundCallRoute = ph,SP3 (in my setup, the POTS phone is still connected and still rings)<br /></p><p><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> (SP3 is for the PBX)</span><br /></p><p><b>SP3 Service</b></p><p><b>-Enable <br /></b></p><p>X_ServProvProfile = C (because I created ITSP Profile C they go together)</p><p>X_InboundCallRoute = >(MSP2):SP2 (don't ask me what this does...but SP2 is where GV is)</p><p>X_AcceptSIPFromRegistrarOnly {check Value, uncheck the others}</p><p>X_KeepAliveEnable = {check Value, uncheck the others}</p><p>-<b>SIP Credentials</b></p><p><b> </b>AuthUserName = {pick something, but you will use it on your PBX, I used obi200}</p><p>AuthPassword = {I put one in, but the check mark keeps going to Device Default...yet it works...}</p><p> (you will use the password on your PBX)</p><p>-<b>Calling Features </b><br /></p><p>MaxSessions = {something larger than 1...I used 6}</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Some of those settings might be wrong, there may be better ways...but it works. At the end I will attach the screen shots so you can compare notes.</p><p> </p><p>On to Part 2 the phones.</p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEnSf2adhH6PpfSC8l4i9lOoMFpsgBTf5Ss2W9uvsO670p3T4lpGfzsxRszOhvg-6_oNpDNDQKZxvtGRRUoH9kE5xCIuV8jsSZkrY7tVsoDxdTJywu0qx0J7rXho5h-wZkWppp9HCbD8y/s864/ProfileC-Gen.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="864" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEnSf2adhH6PpfSC8l4i9lOoMFpsgBTf5Ss2W9uvsO670p3T4lpGfzsxRszOhvg-6_oNpDNDQKZxvtGRRUoH9kE5xCIuV8jsSZkrY7tVsoDxdTJywu0qx0J7rXho5h-wZkWppp9HCbD8y/s320/ProfileC-Gen.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CoVBG7rn_Xwc_5pMSykalrSyDiuEHd-DGWkDmsQ13f4xbZ0OkUENmGpIL3N6pfUKRQXdS8bHblDhRazCBH0C2g9IXHjLRHbxIJCXC7eOukf0wfymfDVSRxtw2hvcpVSWUwweh7cnqoOG/s2034/ProfileC-SIP.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2034" data-original-width="888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CoVBG7rn_Xwc_5pMSykalrSyDiuEHd-DGWkDmsQ13f4xbZ0OkUENmGpIL3N6pfUKRQXdS8bHblDhRazCBH0C2g9IXHjLRHbxIJCXC7eOukf0wfymfDVSRxtw2hvcpVSWUwweh7cnqoOG/s320/ProfileC-SIP.png" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9RY9vjdk6cP1bB4y9EVjdn-e0yhYH_bTiUU1v82RRcZb4PxePNqaPHV5gFwL2X3tp-J90cUEs7SaBAjRutVxz7lSvefEZhoBxCV_dsC8Og1y7itlT_DykKdbSOiokyecu4_XTONz9nJl/s1610/SP2-Service.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1610" data-original-width="843" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9RY9vjdk6cP1bB4y9EVjdn-e0yhYH_bTiUU1v82RRcZb4PxePNqaPHV5gFwL2X3tp-J90cUEs7SaBAjRutVxz7lSvefEZhoBxCV_dsC8Og1y7itlT_DykKdbSOiokyecu4_XTONz9nJl/s320/SP2-Service.png" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrzpdtb0rNPCx3YCPXQdVyAm0pGglP5uuvC6aMilLn1v0-vrlvHSFz_qRYQTsf0IvNUB32mr1mghX6eBFdLEFiZ5njZ7D6lBhLAEcuVWEr9DxZOdZSedcvcADLssCuC9pqRew_YQtk_Wn/s1610/SP3-Service.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1610" data-original-width="834" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrzpdtb0rNPCx3YCPXQdVyAm0pGglP5uuvC6aMilLn1v0-vrlvHSFz_qRYQTsf0IvNUB32mr1mghX6eBFdLEFiZ5njZ7D6lBhLAEcuVWEr9DxZOdZSedcvcADLssCuC9pqRew_YQtk_Wn/s320/SP3-Service.png" /></a></div><br /> <br /><p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-6759065017927681952020-04-27T17:25:00.002-05:002020-04-27T17:25:58.479-05:00Supplemental files... DG-10 to DG-20 MIDI conversionOk...this is simply going to be all the files...I will try to organize them by section...starting out with the MIDI conversion.<br />
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This is what I used to do my mod.<br />
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First it is very handy downloading the DG-10/20 Service Manual available <a href="https://www.synthxl.com/casio-dg-10-dg-20/" target="_blank">many places</a>... <br />
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On all the documents I annotated the original wiring in red (so I could follow the circuit) and my changes in pink (basically as an assembly manual).<br />
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The most time consuming part was the re-engineering...but soon I realized that the schematics almost exactly matched the circuit board...so you could almost lay the schematics over the board to identify parts.<br />
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In my reverse engineering I reversed the pictures of the bottom of the circuit board so it would directly match the top of the board...and the schematic...it makes sense once you try it. As a result some of my notes are in backward writing, but it is easy enough to figure out.<br />
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Lets start with the schematic. <br />
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First starting with the MIDI port on the DG-20. There is a switch to either have 6 channels out...or just all 6 strings to one channel. Second is the port itself. Note the identifiers JG-1 through JG-6 This is on a daughter board at the IO jacks...I had to just wire it up direct. (BTW the item marked FB...those are ferrite beads) (I used DigiKey part number 240-2513-1-ND Ferrite Bead 86 Ohm Axial) Also on the circuit below, there are two things that look like black circles spit in half...they probably match something on the circuit board that would have been mounted on the DG-20...I couldn't even see a photo of that board...the fully split in half one means not connected...the one with a small line in the middle is connected...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcEyqWdQpHGqDS2wwAQIq-8O7Edl750qx8EcaNO55Vc1cEIThQI7KvzG57Nlq-MU0VdtrZEk1YlVt0IGJ5Hp2CapehYXyXoSENUwoDd2VofzEfiSuV2tlqflHINKfhpcqtc1aOqKQIPdF/s1600/DG-20midi.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="909" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcEyqWdQpHGqDS2wwAQIq-8O7Edl750qx8EcaNO55Vc1cEIThQI7KvzG57Nlq-MU0VdtrZEk1YlVt0IGJ5Hp2CapehYXyXoSENUwoDd2VofzEfiSuV2tlqflHINKfhpcqtc1aOqKQIPdF/s640/DG-20midi.png" width="640" /></a></div>
Now on this schematic on the upper left side you again see JG-1 through JG-6 , these are the drilled holes in the DG-10 circuit board...they aren't marked...and I did have to modify them a bit...but it is almost 100% there. So I ran wire from those drilled holes to my MIDI connector and switch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QNeLLB_sN4Fno1s8gweMh_E167GSYd7JbekzTBHbvj__TIBgUJuYYSSZ1Q1HbW_W9Mqfsi_tebc6zREEgJJuHBvdAchuoPUWSl4khzJ1JWucaGFQ9mZa7ewg67xa62wRvM2l-O7qwaHf/s1600/DG-20midi2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1398" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QNeLLB_sN4Fno1s8gweMh_E167GSYd7JbekzTBHbvj__TIBgUJuYYSSZ1Q1HbW_W9Mqfsi_tebc6zREEgJJuHBvdAchuoPUWSl4khzJ1JWucaGFQ9mZa7ewg67xa62wRvM2l-O7qwaHf/s640/DG-20midi2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now you will note on the DG-10 schematic the obvious missing JG connection. You can see in pink the required mods...one specific one tells the CPU that it is a DG-20 not DG-10<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX_e7J8EXx9G7R6jylXFdfP-8HcWwiPhJBqLqwwrtrL34XBKex0odTRIB75ALAEPZB3sR56p-3qlwuov6PLBztAy6utj3IRltkGkWpFrhGd9aEJ6BIKHPDPQDxaATRcXso7ZfZNOOC7wK/s1600/DG-10midi2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="790" data-original-width="1367" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX_e7J8EXx9G7R6jylXFdfP-8HcWwiPhJBqLqwwrtrL34XBKex0odTRIB75ALAEPZB3sR56p-3qlwuov6PLBztAy6utj3IRltkGkWpFrhGd9aEJ6BIKHPDPQDxaATRcXso7ZfZNOOC7wK/s640/DG-10midi2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJ4DX6Kg6jAo7jdIPsopISfm0oLoZ-CcjgCx8rPg6by7l6JHsXsU8DozR1E0FZoBu7Zk4qXy_H3yfB4LZhzLU66TDBkRu0-mp5S8PKQ2f5u4XJdzjLN_bdtz_SlEYRhStOBSNMBdfKj4-/s1600/DG-20-10-CPUswitch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="1041" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJ4DX6Kg6jAo7jdIPsopISfm0oLoZ-CcjgCx8rPg6by7l6JHsXsU8DozR1E0FZoBu7Zk4qXy_H3yfB4LZhzLU66TDBkRu0-mp5S8PKQ2f5u4XJdzjLN_bdtz_SlEYRhStOBSNMBdfKj4-/s640/DG-20-10-CPUswitch.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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So here is what it looks like on the DG-10 circuit board.<br />
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Inverted backside with mods You will note I marked the connection 1-6 on the upper right side.<br />
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BTW all the jumpers and components go on the top...but it was easier to follow the circuit by drawing it out on the bottom of the board.<br />
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Actual view backside with mods, again red is existing wiring, pink is my mods.<br />
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These photos have ALL the mods in view, not just the MIDI...so just using the schematic, knowing where i marked pin 1 and 6, just follow the lines... There is one wire to remove, a resistor to add, a diode to add. and a handful of jumper wires to install...almost everything goes into existing drilled but not marked holes. Now for the pic below, note the wires at the lower left of the above pic.<br />
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Here is the only circuit trace you have to cut...right there in the center of the pic above next to "JD" you see I have a pink line and 3 white lines...that area is one big circuit trace, so I had to cut it where those lines are to separate the area into separate traces...the white is where I dug through the copper trace to bare circuit board below.<br />
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Finally I needed to know what pin is what for the MIDI connector.<br />
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Going slow and using a voltmeter in 'resistance...beep' mode I went through it line by line, making sure I had a match from the schematic to my DG-10 wiring.<br />
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<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-19379305337939754242020-01-10T20:13:00.000-06:002020-01-11T18:12:09.798-06:00Casio DG-10 modified into a DG-20<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So if you were a rich kid in the 80's you might have had a DG-10 or DG-20 a digital guitar made by Casio. ($350 for the DG-10...I am guessing the DG-20 was $50 to $100 more)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTp79z_v2PyfhbLJw15kNbSnYB9-f9FTHt0zjONnkPJqWKSj09HQhsZZRbN519LJWrSUTh_oYSwwXB5UGbTvVKUi5ppJCr5l3tk9aDg_AD8XITU8JlMEAipIl_pMzpSWNElYKswjllyG7L/s1600/1987-Casio-DG-10-Digital-Guitar-Electric-Acoustic-Music.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTp79z_v2PyfhbLJw15kNbSnYB9-f9FTHt0zjONnkPJqWKSj09HQhsZZRbN519LJWrSUTh_oYSwwXB5UGbTvVKUi5ppJCr5l3tk9aDg_AD8XITU8JlMEAipIl_pMzpSWNElYKswjllyG7L/s320/1987-Casio-DG-10-Digital-Guitar-Electric-Acoustic-Music.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br />
I was not a rich kid in the 80's and I hadn't even heard of this until I saw one on the remake of the Take On Me video by Weezer.<br />
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<br />
So I did so looking around, figured out what the device was, then tried to by one.<br />
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<br />
I lucked out and picked up a DG-10 (like in the video) that needed a bit of work but operated just fine...for dirt cheap...<br />
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<br />
So I got it running and played with it a bit, as I dug through the documents available I learned that I had the stripped down version, but there was also a DG-20 that had line out and MIDI out. (as well as some other sound and manual percussion switches).<br />
<br />
Well I was jealous of the MIDI output...so I popped mine open to see how hard it would be to modify mine to add MIDI support.<br />
<br />
I noticed that in the Service manual that the main parts seemed to be identical and even the circuits were almost identical except for some minor differences and some passive components.<br />
<br />
I took pictures of the circuit boards top and bottom and happened to find a few pictures of a DG-20's guts.<br />
<br />
I realized that those geniuses at Casio had built both keyboards with the same chips and almost identical circuit boards except for about 3 modified traces...depending on which version you got, some traces were whole and some were cut.<br />
<br />
The circuit boards even had the drill holes...the only thing missing was labeling and some of the pads were coated and had to be cleaned.<br />
<br />
So based on the schematic (they did not have board photos unlike most electronics service manuals) I basically reverse engineered the circuit boards and figured out where to add passives and jumpers, and where to remove them to convert the DG-10 into the DG-20.<br />
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(luckily mine is a DG-10 so no worries)</div>
<br />
<br />
I can say that it was actually an easy mod...time consuming for the planning and reverse engineering, but the actual mod went pretty quickly with no problems, except for missing a jumper, and 4 passives for the line out circuit.<br />
<br />
So the total number of parts required for the mod were: <br />
<br />
1 slide switch <br />
1 midi port<br />
1 1/4" mono port<br />
8 momentary pushbutton switches <br />
4 ferrite bead filters<br />
9 diodes<br />
3 ceramic capacitors<br />
3 electrolytic capacitors<br />
6 resistors <br />
<br />
So depending on what you have on hand...$10 to $20 worth of parts...you know the Casio factory got them at bulk...so I am guessing the DG-20 cost at most $5 to $10 more to build...total cost. (some more rubber switches, two more circuit boards, and a completely different sound selector in the actual DG-10)<br />
<br />
The result is other than how the switches and outputs look, my DG-10 is a DG-20.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsgEjrlFBbR5ip5CNpesMXPyDqhKDlvdLCvvan_LgivTjUUoNG3xH4jn6qGkRfTnu0X4A8ht8xRWjb1IHdu9KnnGvXxU2JWf04xgSdwYKdEOphvLtwuBFGHs2-3cTeZ96PQicA3uCVrRNK/s1600/IMG_1816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsgEjrlFBbR5ip5CNpesMXPyDqhKDlvdLCvvan_LgivTjUUoNG3xH4jn6qGkRfTnu0X4A8ht8xRWjb1IHdu9KnnGvXxU2JWf04xgSdwYKdEOphvLtwuBFGHs2-3cTeZ96PQicA3uCVrRNK/s320/IMG_1816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
I am sure nobody else is dumb enough to do this mod, but I include the photos I used and modified to show the original circuit and components and the ones requited to modify the DG-10.<br />
<br />
I will say you don't really need the line out, but I thought bypassing the amp circuits might sound better?<br />
<br />
Anywho the following are my modifications to the board photos I did.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXBTUFvlPenEG6N6rVzk6-5aXLvivM0asVU3nud7yfrTPLjh_Wk_XGwiDU3eNFi8ykS3hcmFD9UzykfG39PvxQG0atg0rC2mubrcXyrsyMKLaDGIJRIJx33cQ2tOtD4bIelbPp5QAaCj6/s1600/dg10lineout.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="955" data-original-width="1600" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXBTUFvlPenEG6N6rVzk6-5aXLvivM0asVU3nud7yfrTPLjh_Wk_XGwiDU3eNFi8ykS3hcmFD9UzykfG39PvxQG0atg0rC2mubrcXyrsyMKLaDGIJRIJx33cQ2tOtD4bIelbPp5QAaCj6/s320/dg10lineout.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Lineout mod to schematics (not complete...just showing what I missed...<br />
<br />
In all cases the pink (salmon?) colored lines are what needs to be added or modified, the red is the existing circuit topside components (to help me trace the circuits)<br />
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Amp circuit mods to get line out <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijxP0-NQAKi-Tsyo7yk2SfePXMt3Pg2CWCyO7TvmXfO5HBc-z6Q4vyzc5-E_RgO8X6ML-8X5BBR0F2CJFi66CCIWmZz5M3X_j1F-_EGR6c1gZVV_O5l2qiAS6u1eyotwreL9PqvBrYojIs/s1600/IMG_1695-edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijxP0-NQAKi-Tsyo7yk2SfePXMt3Pg2CWCyO7TvmXfO5HBc-z6Q4vyzc5-E_RgO8X6ML-8X5BBR0F2CJFi66CCIWmZz5M3X_j1F-_EGR6c1gZVV_O5l2qiAS6u1eyotwreL9PqvBrYojIs/s640/IMG_1695-edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tone control and rhythm select panel...needed to be modified to add 4 tone switches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHsVgdLERxpbXsvofrIo1OrMvaWfOUoQ2d3R0DrQVPx21zO_bfs8FQj7laNfyGJ8XyX1-G10EJQy5lHsHoeF34AkshZD_CJDU46lPkCHyXyG97mIujozAEgFiF6lWQaZQYOUFqrQK3dHM/s1600/IMG_1696-edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1600" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHsVgdLERxpbXsvofrIo1OrMvaWfOUoQ2d3R0DrQVPx21zO_bfs8FQj7laNfyGJ8XyX1-G10EJQy5lHsHoeF34AkshZD_CJDU46lPkCHyXyG97mIujozAEgFiF6lWQaZQYOUFqrQK3dHM/s640/IMG_1696-edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
If someone really gets a desire to do this mod, drop me a line and I will send all my photos and documents...<br />
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-29209552036324280022019-06-19T21:36:00.000-05:002019-06-19T21:36:06.911-05:00Collidoscope...A Granular Audio SynthI was watching random videos and stumbled on this one by Dr Mix. (this is their prototype, not my version)<br />
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<br />
So I thought it had a great look and interface, but couldn't imagine how expensive it was.<br />
<br />
...it isn't...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://isam.eecs.qmul.ac.uk/projects/collidoscope/collidoscope.html" target="_blank">This was a project by two people (I assume students at the time) at The Queen Mary University of London</a>.<br />
<br />
It operates of a Raspberry Pi, two USB/MIDI keyboards, 4 slider potentiometers, a Focusrite USB soundcard, an arduion Teensy, two microphones and a monitor. <br />
<br />
To make it pretty you build a box.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://collidoscope.io/" target="_blank">Their project site</a> has <a href="https://code.soundsoftware.ac.uk/projects/opencollidoscope" target="_blank">full documentation on the wiring, software, and even hardware</a>.<br />
<br />
there are a couple of howevers.<br />
<br />
-First, the software was last updated in 2016. They have a compiled app at the project page that works just fine, but if you want to make any changes...well lets just say I have been neck deep in software for the last few days.<br />
-Second, most of the pictures and explanations show the original version, the plans demonstrate the later version...can cause confusion.<br />
<br />
<br />
So a big part of their project was the Collaborative concept of separate keyboards, microphones, and sample manipulation.<br />
<br />
For now I am simply building a single person version...so I only have to source half the hardware from ebay...<br />
...but I had to modify the software...<br />
<br />
If you notice in the video, you see two wave forms...but they are both on a single monitor. I wanted to make a single user version and only show one waveform on the whole screen.<br />
<br />
If I had done this back in 2016 it would have been a simple text edit and recompile. However, the compiling code changed quite a bit from then and it was far from a simple text edit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-87170500633538628242019-05-28T16:50:00.002-05:002019-06-19T21:33:20.188-05:00Yaesu 857D, SignaLink, Panadapter, Fldigi, SDRuno, WSJT-X etc...(update at end)<br />
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<br />
You can see by the title there is a bunch crammed together...<br />
<br />
So the dilemma now for those who don't yet have the coin to get something nice like the ICOM IC-7300, is how to get those advantages with the equipment we already own.<br />
<br />
Bit of background...most radios out there have some kind of serial computer interface (CAT for Yaesu) connection and maybe some kind of data interface (for a TNC terminal node controller).<br />
<br />
The 857D is in that category, a CAT connection to interface with tuner and computer, and a data connection to access TNC in/out a PTT and squelch status.<br />
<br />
Wiring in my setup...<br />
<br />
-a CAT cable from 857 to tuner (LDG YT-100) and a CAT cable from tuner to serial/usb adapter to computer.<br />
<br />
-a data cable from 857 to SignaLink USB (handles TNC chores) and a usb cable from SignaLink to computer.<br />
<br />
-a usb cable from SDRPlay RSP2Pro to computer.<br />
<br />
---also a usb hub to have more slots for my laptop.<br />
<br />
Hardware Settings...<br />
<br />
-usb from CAT adapter creates a COM port...and depending on which slot it is in in the laptop or hub, it will have a different COM port...so I put it in the same slot and labeled that slot, so it will always show up as COM3<br />
---(how do I know? all versions of windows has a 'Device Manager' in win 10, it is hidden, but you can search for it, it is still there. Under Ports (COM & LPT) you will see your serial port adapter.)<br />
<br />
-SDRPlay (RSP2) - my Panadapter -had an entry in Device Manager labeled "SDRPlay (RSP2) under 'Sound,video and game controllers'...if it isn't there...it won't work with your software<br />
---(Occasionally it disappeared, so I had to unplug it...wait a minute, and plug it back in...then check Device Manager to make sure it was there.)<br />
<span id="goog_1853795898"></span><span id="goog_1853795899"></span><br />
-SignaLink USB also has an entry in 'Sound, video and game controllers' but is called "USB Audio CODEC" The SignaLink has a physical connection to the PTT, so every bit of software using the SignaLink should have External or VOX for the PTT...and radio should NOT be VOX.<br />
<br />
---(the name is important...it will be used many times later) <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX45w1MUUSpuM8LNyXxYWolSQjjn8CBwRZGNXc8m3Uxso7cBek6EHg-8C4OXYvowTgnHsGPu9Bwv7RWdQFlqEJg18PXZDvY0Ie0zn2MxKqWIuUQ8UYCVepaw_DxNzgQhUMUQY994vHZZqU/s1600/windows1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="970" data-original-width="976" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX45w1MUUSpuM8LNyXxYWolSQjjn8CBwRZGNXc8m3Uxso7cBek6EHg-8C4OXYvowTgnHsGPu9Bwv7RWdQFlqEJg18PXZDvY0Ie0zn2MxKqWIuUQ8UYCVepaw_DxNzgQhUMUQY994vHZZqU/s320/windows1.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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Software Settings...<br />
<br />
Now the fun begins...the easy path is for all the software to live in harmony, see what is going on on the radio, listen to the SDR or SignaLink (as appropriate) and send and receive data almost automatically.<br />
<br />
To get there wasn't as hard as I originally thought.<br />
<br />
Two key bits of software... VSPE (<a href="http://www.eterlogic.com/Products.VSPE.html" target="_blank">Virtual Serial Ports Emulator</a>) and <a href="http://www.dxatlas.com/OmniRig/" target="_blank">Omnirig</a>.<br />
<br />
Omnirig is a fantastic and free radio interface for most radios...it is almost a standard, so much radio software out there will utilize Omnirig rather than direct radio connection...this is important because through Omnirig they can 'share' control of the radio...but only one device can have direct connection to the radio COM port.<br />
<br />
...unfortunately not all software uses Omnirig...<br />
<br />
VSPE is a cheat to get around software that won't talk to Omnirig due to some kind of philosophy (apparently...)<br />
<br />
VSPE is a very powerful serial port manipulator...it can to many tasks other than the one I will be using.<br />
<br />
<br />
So here is the setup part...<br />
<br />
In my case the radio is on COM3.<br />
<br />
I set up <b>VSPE</b> to 'Split' COM3 to COM10 ... now many programs can connect to COM10 as if it was the radio itself.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaHHHTj389YdMNR7_K-CV6e9y0jfudrS8ubeh3Ojmee341ji3qTa7XPcYjNiOQX1GPpbquj3aNNMCaBfzygepV6EAaCN6aPvyVggTFkYjo3Vtv9FeLWJBYtV5eeaaUu9otiYbYGkzeY0d/s1600/vspe3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="849" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaHHHTj389YdMNR7_K-CV6e9y0jfudrS8ubeh3Ojmee341ji3qTa7XPcYjNiOQX1GPpbquj3aNNMCaBfzygepV6EAaCN6aPvyVggTFkYjo3Vtv9FeLWJBYtV5eeaaUu9otiYbYGkzeY0d/s320/vspe3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
I set up <b>Omnirig</b> to 'see' the 857 at COM10 at Rig1. (4800baud-matches my radio settings, bits 8, parity none, Stop bits 2)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-AjbIohRKx0d1IAO5E4PSo2HWgdb9SkK2l3GxQZmGlEwdMEnEZxEkFLjCikIesQviDod41OoO4Xi8_3HFASxFLkHlyIH0DFoSgOYAKnq09XdoWI-izg747kFy2cn6eEJI5739c2E3fFo/s1600/omnirig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="262" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-AjbIohRKx0d1IAO5E4PSo2HWgdb9SkK2l3GxQZmGlEwdMEnEZxEkFLjCikIesQviDod41OoO4Xi8_3HFASxFLkHlyIH0DFoSgOYAKnq09XdoWI-izg747kFy2cn6eEJI5739c2E3fFo/s320/omnirig.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
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I run <b>SDRuno</b>, there are two locations to set and view the radio settings (radio is now on and connected)...first in the 'RX Control' display under settings, ORIG (stands for Omnirig) I set Rig1. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvma0UWhw9r_UdBOOEbr-WEaYk5SwAAgVTch8qzCUOw7aKCqOb0V5QuUUD2chUYJgI3tfOQKOvLBMZKSVnv7b4kYWLvupnesteGTUOHqyBi0HRHns0JYL-fEA8NTCYWt8WapxUPzf30yU/s1600/sdruno1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="296" data-original-width="367" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvma0UWhw9r_UdBOOEbr-WEaYk5SwAAgVTch8qzCUOw7aKCqOb0V5QuUUD2chUYJgI3tfOQKOvLBMZKSVnv7b4kYWLvupnesteGTUOHqyBi0HRHns0JYL-fEA8NTCYWt8WapxUPzf30yU/s320/sdruno1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
in the 'Main' display under settings, ORIG, I should see that RIG1 Type is FT-857, RIG1 Status is On-Line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LHh2Mzw4YGUOmAMGf8BwuN7a84rfpahECZVTjGWSipP9sHx_Nvv7DTag87IaYw7HnsKl-rW_cEK9PzHmN_zcUQwgVCskgIbgSETLPd6QS4vAZuOQ-kMoMivuykvs1yJEpAFg9gUgz3Vk/s1600/sdruno3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="296" data-original-width="367" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LHh2Mzw4YGUOmAMGf8BwuN7a84rfpahECZVTjGWSipP9sHx_Nvv7DTag87IaYw7HnsKl-rW_cEK9PzHmN_zcUQwgVCskgIbgSETLPd6QS4vAZuOQ-kMoMivuykvs1yJEpAFg9gUgz3Vk/s320/sdruno3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>WriteLog</b> (logging software my club uses for Field Day),<br />
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Setup-Ports...<br />
... RIG #1, Rig Type "Afreet Omnirig"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7Y_Qgb6tK6VaUhOvn94YZzVBzrjh5A3A6HpV2CV8PxSVt7m6Z9xyh-cVEK71CgGtqs_2AR1Enckcxo14TCq5a_9wCVnZ7darp-9Lk4I0ukEC8rCbAIs-FId8ie2VVpdcrYKjYfp7MMph/s1600/writelog2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="736" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7Y_Qgb6tK6VaUhOvn94YZzVBzrjh5A3A6HpV2CV8PxSVt7m6Z9xyh-cVEK71CgGtqs_2AR1Enckcxo14TCq5a_9wCVnZ7darp-9Lk4I0ukEC8rCbAIs-FId8ie2VVpdcrYKjYfp7MMph/s320/writelog2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b><a href="https://winlink.org/WinlinkExpress" target="_blank">Winlink Express</a></b>, after opening 'Winmor Winlink' session, .<br />
-- Settings- WINMOR TNC Setup, <br />
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<br />
-- Settings-WINMOR TNC Setup, <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VCKdm3y0PhqvJ5gaRWyc5l2O7lQsn4XUnhoTRAKH_aPdA6zIHsSaTliAjR2zWSwiWiFzJBh1fV_LP8aPkyZ8pGNwQjkTs8RRHi-LMi6cNMK_Piupp5xVg0RkeeyR5rEYcDmSVppHQpMn/s1600/winlink2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="887" height="84" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VCKdm3y0PhqvJ5gaRWyc5l2O7lQsn4XUnhoTRAKH_aPdA6zIHsSaTliAjR2zWSwiWiFzJBh1fV_LP8aPkyZ8pGNwQjkTs8RRHi-LMi6cNMK_Piupp5xVg0RkeeyR5rEYcDmSVppHQpMn/s320/winlink2.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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WINMORE Capture and Playback Device are both '(USB Audio CODEC)'
--note: I renamed both of those to 'SignaLink'...yours may show
Microphone and Speaker...but the USB Audio CODEC is the key) </div>
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in the Winmor window - Settings- Radio Setup, Yaesu FT-857, USB, COM10, 4800, External Serial port for PTT<br />
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<b><a href="https://physics.princeton.edu/pulsar/k1jt/wsjtx.html" target="_blank">WSJT-X</a></b> (currently v2.1.0-rc5) File-Settings<br />
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Radio tab, "Omnirig Rig 1", PTT VOX, Mode None, Split None<br />
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Audio tab, Input and Output, (USB Audio CODEC)<br />
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<a href="http://www.w1hkj.com/" target="_blank">Fldigi</a> (currently v4.1.03) Configure-Rig Control (or Rig tab if you already have the config open), <br />
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Rig Tab - So far I have been successful using their FLrig,'Enable flrig xcvr control with fldigi as client'.<br />
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Audio Tab - Again sound input/output is (USB Audio CODEC)<br />
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--<a href="http://www.w1hkj.com/" target="_blank">FLrig</a>, Config- Setup-Transceiver, Rig FT-857D, Ser Port COM10, Baud 4800, 2 stopbits, nothing selected in the PTT RTS section.<br />
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-DigiPan...pretty basic..just set PTT to External.<br />
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<br />
The Panadapter part is the SDRPlay RSP2Pro. This is automatically discovered by the SDRuno software.<br />
<br />
What the whole deal gets you is...<br />
<br />
-within the SDRuno software you can change bands, modes, freq, by either mouse clicking or spinning the mouse wheel...and in some cases you can change the frequency range shown by dragging the mouse (if you are zoomed in).<br />
<br />
-but also, within the FLdigi or Winlink software you can control the radio freq and mode within that software.<br />
<br />
-meanwhile the logging software is recording contacts (depending on other software, WSJT-X automatically logs contacts) but as a minimum the logging software knows the band mode and freq already. <br />
<br />
Without this setup, you could still do digital modes, but everything would require multiple steps.<br />
<br />
...BTW if I had a more modern radio like the IC-7300, a lot of the settings wouldn't be needed, but a virtual port still might be used with certain software.<br />
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-----<br />
Update: First, I will throw out there that these programs don't play well together...ie winlink, WSJT-X, FlDigi...so just run the one you are using for the mode you want.<br />
<br />
Second...for contest purposes, my club uses WriteLog...other than that I don't use it...so for contest purposes (i.e. Field Day) I am using it.<br />
<br />
...I talk enough HF at work, so I play in the digital modes...we will be using the FT-8 during field day for contact purposes...but through WSJT-X there is no easy logging method.<br />
<br />
...I recently (last week) learned that the WriteLog folks have a FT-8 software that does the contacts AND the logs through WriteLog... they call it...wait for it... DigiRite. So for contest purposes I use it in place of WSJT-X.<br />
<br />
...ok some more Writelog settings were required to use the Digilog...I had to go to Start>Writelog> Sound board mixer control and define the inputs (signalink, signalink, mic,speaker) <br />
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<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-36210164308328775622019-02-06T09:51:00.001-06:002019-02-06T09:55:20.821-06:00Small Oscilloscope kit review<br />
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I somehow hadn't heard about this kit <a href="https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/jye-tech-dso-138-review-and-performance-testing/" target="_blank">until recently</a>...I <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnvJA8o1S90" target="_blank">saw one on a video</a> about the same time a friend showed up with one. <a href="https://jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e138.php" target="_blank">I got this one off </a>Amazon (I am not a shill...so I didn't post a link to a particular one...but this is the title description)<br />
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JYE DSO 138 DIY KIT (13801K)<br />
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<br />
I also got a plastic box for it...funny that Amazon does not recommend this box, and doesn't say it will fit...but yes it will fit. (I don't know if other brands will work...I have this one)<br />
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Diymore DSO138 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Acrylic Case DIY Kit (Acrylic Shell DIY Kit))<br />
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The Oscilloscope kit (<a href="https://jyetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=504" target="_blank">and apparently there are many knock offs</a>...<a href="https://jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/DSO138_Fake_vs_Genuine.pdf" target="_blank">based on this</a> I think I have a knockoff unfortunately) was straight forward thru hole soldering...there are some pre-populated SMD items, the board is large enough that it is not difficult placing and soldering the components.<br />
<br />
It only took a couple of hours or so to solder together, the instructions are good, the components are not well labeled to match the instructions, but it is fairly easy to decipher what goes where (specifically the different capacitor values if you are not familiar with the coding system they use)<br />
<br />
I would recommend that you first separate all the components and group them based on item number (R1, R2, C1,C2, etc) I have a small magnetic mat, with a pre-marked grid, that I just numbered 1-10 and dropped the correct components in...again to make ID easier...I kept them in groups...because there may be one of a particular value but 5 of another...so between label deciphering, and deductive reasoning I could ensure I put the right thing in the thing.<br />
<br />
There is a step prior to final assembly to test that you haven't screwed it all up. Assuming nothing is wrong, you do final assembly and power it on.<br />
<br />
I was very surprised at how well it worked. I have a regular O-scope, so I know what it should look like, do, and how it should operated. It works just like a mini scope, many bells and whistles I didn't expect to get...<br />
<br />
Selectable GND-AC-DC coupling,<br />
1v .1v .01V grid<br />
X5 X2 X1 expansion<br />
<br />
..and a clunky button menu system for timing values etc. <br />
<br />
I can't say I would recommend this for real precision work, but if you want a simple O-scope...this works just fine...If you need a pocket (large pocket) sized portable O-scope for quick signal checking, then for the money you can't go wrong with this one.bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-48679247104383314092019-02-05T22:24:00.003-06:002019-02-05T22:26:22.168-06:00Gizmo Arpeggiator etcI recently aquired a Yamaha DX7 that needed a tiny bit of maint to bring back to working order...It cost me $1 to fix. I got really lucky with a really nice keyboard. (the backup battery powers all the ROMS...you can replace it with a holder and coin cell battery)<br />
<br />
So I am fiddling around with voices (or patches or specifically Sysex files). But I am not getting enough...<br />
<br />
Randomly I see a YouTube video about Arpeggiators...and specifically <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4W02eaWkGw" target="_blank">DX7 Arpeggiators</a>.<br />
<br />
BTW, I am not a pro musician, and I do not understand the math behind this...<br />
<br />
So I start searching for an Arpeggiator. I stumble upon a device that tickles my hardware hacker cockles... <a href="https://cs.gmu.edu/~sean/projects/gizmo/" target="_blank">Gizmo</a>.<br />
<br />
<b>"Gizmo is the codename for an open source MIDI utility device which targets the Arduino Uno or Mega."</b><br />
<br />
Gizmo was done (as far as I can tell) as a music theory thesis. The documentation is the thesis, so it is a bit hard to wade through...but it is all there.<br />
<br />
It is an Arduino, with some code and a MIDI hat on top. The code utilizes the MIDI hat switches and rheostats to control the software.<br />
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<br />
The code seems correct..but it is very challenging to wade through, so I am only going to demo the Arpeggiator function.<br />
<br />
(I am using a Mega and the MIDI hat)<br />
<br />
The short version is the software utilizes the midi functions of the keyboard to manipulate other keys...giving a more complex sound than would normally be generated.<br />
<br />
So in my case (DX7), the MIDI-OUT from the keyboard goes into the MIDI-IN on the MIDI shield, and likewise the MIDI-OUT from the shield, goes to the MIDI-IN of the keyboard. (it seems to be a Yamaha thing...my MIDI USB card is wired up the same way.)<br />
<br />
I followed the instructions...but I kept having a compiling error...I fought it for days, then realized that I had two temp files that were fouling up the process.<br />
<br />
(wire.cpp and wire.h)<br />
<br />
Specifically, the instructions to run the code require two edits to standard wires files. My solution was to search for those two files on my computer and delete the ones that weren't the primary files. (It will make sense when you follow the instructions).<br />
<br />
Anyway, this is the demo...not sure why the video was suddenly so dark...but at least the audio was ok...you will notice first I do the audio without the Arpeggiator running, then with it running.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1CRHDCylUXw/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1CRHDCylUXw?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-34871253874400628532019-02-05T15:56:00.003-06:002020-12-10T11:01:38.751-06:00LED Panel display 16x32 for $14.<p><i><b>Update at end:</b></i> <br /></p><p> </p><p>I recommend you follow on YouTube<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyLCwa2mneY" target="_blank"> bigclivedotcom</a> in particular a few weeks ago he showed <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyLCwa2mneY" target="_blank">this video</a>...<br />
<br />
The summary is, a toy 'handbag' that has a standard (75 hub) 16x32 LED panel, that you can get on ebay for about $14.<br />
<br />
Bigclivedotcom does the teardown etc...<br />
<br />
I will fast forward to application.<br />
<br />
<br />
Because it is a standard 75hub display, you can use <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rgb-matrix-plus-real-time-clock-hat-for-raspberry-pi" target="_blank">Adafruit's data</a> to install and use. <a href="https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix" target="_blank">Here is the software code for Pi</a>.<br />
<br />
I am using a Raspberry Pi with the <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2345" target="_blank">RGB Matrix HAT</a><b> </b>to drive the display. For cables I searched for 75hub cables and found <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C77NE7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">these at Amazo</a>n. These LED boards have 4pin power plugs, so eventually I found a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F33KGBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">bag of these</a>. And these panels only had one connector...so I needed to solder some on to daisy chain the data lines. I got <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cnc-tech/3020-16-0300-00/1175-1624-ND/3441737" target="_blank">these from Digi-Key</a>. <br />
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Note the high tech blue painters tape...this is just to support it while I test it, the Pi and LED driver board are under the bluetape.<br /><br />
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The first panel worked so well...I bought 3 more...and because these displays are designed to be daisy chained...<br />
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Some examples of the code and output. located in this directory.<br />
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<b><i>cd rpi-rgb-led-matrix/examples-api-use/</i></b><br />
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<i><b>sudo ./demo -D 0 --led-rows=16 -b50 --led-chain=1 --led-pixel-mapper="U-mapper"</b></i><br /><br />
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<i><b>sudo ./demo -D 0 --led-rows=16 -b50 --led-chain=2 --led-pixel-mapper="U-mapper"</b></i><br /><br />
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<i><b>sudo ./demo -D 0 --led-rows=16 -b50 --led-chain=4 --led-pixel-mapper="U-mapper"</b></i><br /><br />
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For the next two you need to specify a font...and specifically a .bdf font...luckily they are included.<br />
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<i><b> sudo ./scrolling-text-example -f </b></i><i><b>../fonts/helvR12.bdf -b 75 -s 3 --led-rows=16 --led-chain=2 There is another...</b></i><br />
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<i><b>sudo ./scrolling-text-example -f </b></i><i><b>../fonts/helvR12.bdf -b 75 -s 3 --led-rows=16 --led-chain=4 There is another...</b></i><br />
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I am just figuring out the software, and I want to make a mount so that I can swivel the two upper panels to be in a row with the lower ones for some applications.<br />
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After playing with this, I found this <a href="https://www.instructables.com/Raspberry-Pi-Scrolling-Sign/" target="_blank">write up</a>. So that is what is on my sign now. Here is the <a href="https://github.com/BigJBehr/RPi-RGB-Matrix-Scrolling-Sign" target="_blank">Github</a>.</p><p>BTW I changed the time display in this rgb-32x64.py code from the writeup.</p><p>around line 439</p><p>original code was [ <b><span class="pl-s1">text</span> <span class="pl-c1">=</span> <span class="pl-s1">datetime</span>.<span class="pl-s1">datetime</span>.<span class="pl-en">now</span>().<span class="pl-en">strftime</span>(<span class="pl-s">"%H:%M"</span>) </b>]<br /><b></b></p><p>now it is [ <b><span class="pl-s1">text</span> <span class="pl-c1">=</span> <span class="pl-s1">datetime</span>.<span class="pl-s1">datetime</span>.<span class="pl-en">now</span>().<span class="pl-en">strftime</span>(<span class="pl-s">"%H:%M Local"</span>) + ' ' + date<span class="pl-s1">tetime</span>.<span class="pl-s1">utc</span><span class="pl-en">now</span>().<span class="pl-en">strftime</span>(<span class="pl-s">" %H%M UTC "</span>)</b> ]</p><p>That displays the time as <b>9:45 Local 1545 UTC</b> (depending on your time zone obviously)</p><p>You could probably add more time zones, but that adds a level of difficulty.<br /></p><p><br /></p>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-13147665182348710752019-02-05T12:24:00.001-06:002019-02-05T12:24:54.162-06:00Premier Pro CC jog/shuttle dialI (for fun not profit) do video editing on Adobe Premier Pro. It is a very powerful program...and I am terrible at keyboard shortcuts, so I mouse everything.<br />
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One important part of editing video is finding where you want to start and end a clip, then copy/cut and paste it somewhere.<br />
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The cut and paste of PP is pretty straight forward, a chop then drag and drop.<br />
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The finding the start/end is the hard part. And it is a pain with the mouse. I had a <a href="https://griffintechnology.com/powermate-usb-classic-aluminum" target="_blank">Griffin Powermate</a> Jog shuttle dial that plugs in to USB and you can program it to simulate key presses.<br />
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Unfortunately they softare stopped being supported with WinXP, I could run it in Win7 but it would occasionally cause the computer to crash, and completely died by the time Win10 came out...so it was a USB powered paperweight.<br />
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BTW it was not recognized natively by any version of windows, it REQUIRED it's software to be running.<br />
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So for the last few years I have done without a jog shuttle dial, and continuously scoured the internets for a solution, there are a couple of $1000 solutions...<a href="https://www.contourdesign.com/product/shuttlepro-v2/" target="_blank">and a $99 one</a>, but the $99 dollar one does not have the ergonomics I wanted...it was too big...about 3 times the size of my Powermate.<br />
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Just a couple of weeks ago I was again looking for the J/S and <a href="https://sites.google.com/view/100happythings/15-premiere-pro-dial-diy" target="_blank">found this article</a>...I was sold, I order parts and soldered them up...then I realized that the parts looked like they might just fit inside my old unused dead Powermate.<br />
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So I undid my soldering and got to fitting.<br />
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The rotary encoder was a loose fit at the top, but that was fixed with a rubber o-ring. It was also a bit long to be centered, but I was able to trim off some of the rotary encoder board so it would fit.<br />
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The Arduino Leonardo board was just slightly to big for the spot I put it, however I was able to use a Dremel to cut a bit off the metal Powermate and it tucked right in.<br />
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I also needed to remove the micro USB port, and I direct soldered the original PM USB cord.<br />
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In fact the install looks almost identical to the original PC board that was in it.<br />
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So with hardware done, I did the normal Arduino stuff to load the authors code into the Arduino, fired up PP and the new J/S worked right away. <br />
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<a href="https://github.com/happythingsmaker/PremiereProDialDIY" target="_blank">The Arduino program</a> simulates keypresses, so you have to choose which code to install. <br />
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I used the "PremierProDialDIY_LEFT_RIGHT_SPACE.ino" file...the space button in PP is the playback start stop...push down on the rotary encoder to activate that.<br />
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Another choice is "...LEFT_RIGHT_CTR_k..." in that case CTR_k is the hotkey to cut...I am afraid I would make accidental cuts.<br />
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The author has a new software that cycles between the Lightroom setup and the PP setup, software for the Sony Vegas hotkey...I am only using it with PP.<br />
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BTW after looking at the original Powermate pictures...I realize I removed the bottom at some point to try and fix it...I now need to find that piece...bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-29347422317438616862019-02-05T10:46:00.001-06:002019-02-05T10:46:20.643-06:00I have 3 or 4 projects to documentI have 3 or 4 projects that I have had completed for a while, but hasn't yet documented.<br />
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So I need to get on that...it is easier to do than document...bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-82522971723422543202018-12-13T16:35:00.003-06:002018-12-29T07:11:07.186-06:00DIY Monk/Loricraft type record cleaner (it is a prototype)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I don't know if I have discussed vintage audio gear here...but I never threw out my old stuff, and still use it...so I was still using vinyl when it came back into vogue (yea for me).<br />
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I will not get into the debate of analog vs digital, but the reality is they do sound different (for a variety of reasons, not just due to the media)...<br />
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...but for me the important difference is when you play a vinyl record you are making a conscious and physical effort to listen to a piece of music...you take that delicate plastic out of its protective sleeve, you carefully place it on the platter, you meticulously clean it, gently lower the hard diamond stylus on to that soft plastic, and sit back to listen to 20 minutes of music.<br />
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It is that deliberate, hands on, mechanical action that is a great part of the event for me...at that moment you think about the amount of time and effort spent practicing, playing, mixing, mastering, then pressing that record.<br />
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Of course the GIANT drawback is trying to keep that vinyl clean so you don't hear pops etc. Tons of money have been spent in that fight. Hundreds of gizmos are available to solve this problem...and some get close, but you have to spend big bucks to really get some good cleaning.<br />
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For the audiophile who throws money at oxygen-impregnated speaker cables etc. there are a few upper end options out there...one is a vacuum that is literally like taking your upholstery attachment and running it against the wet record to vacuum up all the cleaning solution. (~$1000) a drawback is the edges or lips of the vacuum that touch the record get dirty themselves and have to be cleaned...but apparently it works well (I don't know).<br />
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Those devices are out of reach for me...i.e. not financially worth it...<br />
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...some time passes...<br />
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So eventually I see this video and it changes everything for me.<br />
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This vacuum style cleaner is called the Keith Monk, or Loricraft record cleaner. This one looks like a record player complete with tonearm...but in this case the tonearm contains a small vacuum nozzle that sucks up the solution as the record turns and the tonearm moves across. These also sell for around ~$1000, but some crafty individuals have figured out how to relatively simply copy the design DIY.<br />
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I looked at their projects and borrowed a lot of their ideas to make mine.<br />
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I used an Arduino to control everything...I will paste the code at the end.<br />
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Parts list after the Arduino code...<br />
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Also links covering all my research sources at end...(btw, this is my working prototype...I don't like the platter, definitely don't like the box, I need to 3D print some parts to hold the servos, the arduino and relay, and the 'head'...maybe even replace the whole tonearm assembly...<br />
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<br />
To start, I needed a basic setup to build from...so I figured I could hack apart an unwanted turntable and start there. I knew I needed a removable platter with a spindle, so a belt drive turntable made sense...I lucked out in that the spindle was removable from the turntable and almost exactly the same as the geared motor I had...close enough that I could use the 10mm coupler to join the gear drive to the spindle...and the platter mounted on the spindle with no interference.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG_fIZD7-iPTNFrODGlaMXqhNNnQuzpLBw0as_sDIzLQ7dGj0Tl2O2iOjOIbgpAbeuKkpjuPbQBN6AdqZDtN5ZtIZLE4k5fVGCcllhZX412y3GS0TEj3c2SToQ0AT4v4RMdXy6tyUNzt72/s1600/IMG_0686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG_fIZD7-iPTNFrODGlaMXqhNNnQuzpLBw0as_sDIzLQ7dGj0Tl2O2iOjOIbgpAbeuKkpjuPbQBN6AdqZDtN5ZtIZLE4k5fVGCcllhZX412y3GS0TEj3c2SToQ0AT4v4RMdXy6tyUNzt72/s400/IMG_0686.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I just needed to tap the gear housing for bolts (already had 3 pre drilled bosses, a metric tap was closest in size, so I used metric. I was then able to use different length bolts with some nuts to get the proper platter height.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeFYlZXKROxayUF5PvAcod1g3n_T8XpqNNW654ELMkotw4u-IFlYvuN93r4thon-jiAncD7ytD8p6NUTszAVDBof6L4wuYf0YabAvXaLodf1HJow_QdrjT6psRCLesjQhP9Qm0TgPgtf_/s1600/IMG_0678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeFYlZXKROxayUF5PvAcod1g3n_T8XpqNNW654ELMkotw4u-IFlYvuN93r4thon-jiAncD7ytD8p6NUTszAVDBof6L4wuYf0YabAvXaLodf1HJow_QdrjT6psRCLesjQhP9Qm0TgPgtf_/s400/IMG_0678.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So platter issue is solved...now the hard part...<br />
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Luckily the existing tonearm was open enough for me to use it with minimal modification.<br />
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The Monk/Loricraft design has the vacuum attached to the tip (where the stylus would be). Using the desoldering tip (made of Teflon) I removed the center part (tip is force fit into outer housing). That center tip portion I mounted into the tonearm head (where the stylus would have gone) with some hot glue so that it protrudes out of the top of the head about 1/4".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgUfRIION-hG036lm7UEzsTbw3QCB56E0djz6tVICaHocsnjJCxiani1KvgFX2_A5SG9BlI4qjSfqRhnspxe6G_cNx6SstrulHUjl5hVf074uYMW6GMW73b2AoHPkJnsRXRI-QHsyJql9/s1600/IMG_0681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgUfRIION-hG036lm7UEzsTbw3QCB56E0djz6tVICaHocsnjJCxiani1KvgFX2_A5SG9BlI4qjSfqRhnspxe6G_cNx6SstrulHUjl5hVf074uYMW6GMW73b2AoHPkJnsRXRI-QHsyJql9/s400/IMG_0681.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Some brass tubing connected to hose snakes that down behind the tonearm through a slot in the deck...more tubing connects that to the collector jar, and then to the vacuum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7p0qAg9XxzHk_9N_zUaDp0blP2harsx0LiUevu3qgN7922Zi8s3Jec-HBKgnnEjJ8osgXK7qQrn7XmUGL5XrqnC3ng7oiytsp-CNMSa5Ui9psE6lFz58UadItT67KBQhkTjoOsJZ1TnO/s1600/IMG_0676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7p0qAg9XxzHk_9N_zUaDp0blP2harsx0LiUevu3qgN7922Zi8s3Jec-HBKgnnEjJ8osgXK7qQrn7XmUGL5XrqnC3ng7oiytsp-CNMSa5Ui9psE6lFz58UadItT67KBQhkTjoOsJZ1TnO/s400/IMG_0676.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another aspect of the design is to have a bit of thread under the vacuum tip, to keep the tip off the record...this I fished through using the 1/16" heatshrink tubing through the middle of the tonearm. (I used the vacuum to suck it through...only mistake was cutting tubing BEFORE sucking thread through...)<br />
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So no mod to the tonearm itself other than the addition of some parts and adding a bigger spring on the back (vs counterweight in nicer tonearms) to counteract the weight of the added hardware (still tweaking that).<br />
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Underneath the deck was a bit more work. I was able to reuse the control arm for the tonearm, but I needed the pushrod linkages to connect the servo to it...I drilled a couple of holes before I got the geometry correct (180 swing of servo might not be enough throw depending on where it attached to tonearm control arm.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYyAtA-QIjYtIJj8q25edo-NNBW9e4dE-jLIBG_5JUct5mLBuWnCxNQWKEOhLyHNVdaTtE_fFEFE_tc4GaWyEu8W-gUnPJl5l0_KqzPYK1hXMj0NzWvzDFP64kaR0kAWwOpPLtlRY8NmJ9/s1600/rc1crop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="929" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYyAtA-QIjYtIJj8q25edo-NNBW9e4dE-jLIBG_5JUct5mLBuWnCxNQWKEOhLyHNVdaTtE_fFEFE_tc4GaWyEu8W-gUnPJl5l0_KqzPYK1hXMj0NzWvzDFP64kaR0kAWwOpPLtlRY8NmJ9/s400/rc1crop.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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There is a control/smoothness tradeoff...the shorter the throw of the servo, the more granular the movement, so I put it as far out on that mounting arm as I could and still get the full tonearm movement I needed.<br />
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Second underdeck challenge is raising the tonearm...there is an existing assembly that even has a cushion to slowly lower the arm...I fiddled around until I got it to work right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_fx6Bp_BimMs2fyd-nvG3qdP2saM5t_yFJEKfcIqDNLah2n7BXTqSCQwKaxnKRuwnX7cbgoQTuFv2Ob7Zt6g097n40n40-MEdble3WofYXFbyGaFq-UadjvLp5YuYwDg1YGBdeBSku45/s1600/rc2crop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="246" data-original-width="293" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_fx6Bp_BimMs2fyd-nvG3qdP2saM5t_yFJEKfcIqDNLah2n7BXTqSCQwKaxnKRuwnX7cbgoQTuFv2Ob7Zt6g097n40n40-MEdble3WofYXFbyGaFq-UadjvLp5YuYwDg1YGBdeBSku45/s400/rc2crop.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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The red is the back of some thick double sided sticky tape to make it closer to the servo arm, and allow some 'give' (that same tape is used throughout this prototype..the servos are currently mounted using it...)<br />
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(action video)</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/xOCyjQPCbsk/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xOCyjQPCbsk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe><br />
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I think that is about enough hardware info...now the Arduino code...<br />
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Here comes the code...I think it is documented adequately...<br />
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...BTW, the circuitry in the picture above are simply a resistor for the button circuit, one for the led circuit, and a bunch of connectors so I can unplug things as needed for testing/fixing... <br />
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(Due to a Blogger limitation I had to edit in the brackets symbol around the Servo.h after #include...cut and paste FROM this page seems to work...but when you compile you will get an error there...you will have to manually edit in the correct brackets, everything else should work as a large cut and paste)<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b><i>//recordcleaning code apparently the relay module uses LOW to activate relay and HIGH to deactivate<br /><br />#include <Servo.h><br /><br /><br />Servo myservolift; // create servo object to control a servo<br />Servo myservomove; // create servo object to control a servo<br />// twelve servo objects can be created on most boards<br /><br /><br />int poslift = 0; // variable to store the servo position<br />int posmove = 0; // variable to store the servo position<br />int ledPin = 13; // choose the pin for the LED<br />int inPin = 7; // choose the input pin (for a pushbutton)<br />int val = 0; // variable for reading the pin status<br />int relm = 6; // relay motor control<br />int relv = 5; // relay vacuum control<br /><br /><br />void setup() {<br /> myservolift.attach(9); // attaches the lift servo on pin 9 to the servo object<br /> myservomove.attach(10); // attaches the move servo on pin 10 to the servo object<br /> myservolift.write(poslift); // lifts tonearm<br /> myservomove.write(posmove); // moves tonearm<br /> pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // declare LED as output<br /> pinMode(inPin, INPUT); // declare pushbutton as input<br /> pinMode(relm, OUTPUT); // set 6 as relay output for motor<br /> pinMode(relv, OUTPUT); // set 5 as relay output for vacuum<br /> digitalWrite(relm, HIGH); // stop turntable motor<br /> digitalWrite(relv, HIGH); // stop vacuum motor<br />}<br /><br /> //subroutine to run cleaning cycle<br /> void CleanRoutine() {<br /> digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // turn LED ON<br /> <br /> val = 0; // clears the inital pushbutton entry just in case<br /> <br /> for (poslift = 0; poslift <= 90; poslift += 1) { // goes from 0 degrees to 90 degrees<br /> // in steps of 1 degree to lift tonearm<br /> myservolift.write(poslift); // tell liftservo to go to position in variable 'poslift'<br /> delay(50); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position<br /> }<br /> digitalWrite(relm, LOW);<br /> for (posmove = 0; posmove <= 110; posmove += 1) { // goes from 0 degrees to ~180 degrees<br /> // in steps of 1 degree<br /> myservomove.write(posmove); // tell moveservo to go to position in variable 'posmove'<br /> val = digitalRead(inPin); // read input value to see if it should abort<br /> if (val == HIGH ) { // check if the input is LOW (button pressed)<br /> goto exit; // sends to end of routine to abort<br /> }<br /> delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position<br /> }<br /> // start turntable motor<br /> delay(2000);<br /> val = digitalRead(inPin); // read input value<br /> if (val == HIGH ) { // check if the input is LOW (button pressed)<br /> goto exit; // sends to end of routine to abort<br /> }<br /> digitalWrite(relv, LOW); // LOW turns on relay to start vacuum<br /> delay(2000); // delay to allow vacuum to reach full power<br /> for (poslift = 90; poslift >= 0; poslift -= 1) { // goes from 90 degrees to 0 degrees<br /> myservolift.write(poslift); // tell liftservo 'poslift' to lower tonearm<br /> delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position <br /> val = digitalRead(inPin); // read input value - abort?<br /> if (val == HIGH ) { // check if the input is LOW (button pressed)<br /> goto exit; // sends to end of routine to abort<br /> } <br /> }<br /> for (posmove; posmove >= 40; posmove -= 1) { // goes from 180 degrees to 60 degrees<br /> myservomove.write(posmove); // tell moveservo variable 'posmove' to move tonearm to edge<br /> val = digitalRead(inPin); // read input value - abort?<br /> if (val == HIGH ) { // check if the input is LOW (button pressed)<br /> goto exit; // sends to end of routine to abort<br /> }<br /> delay(1000); // 2000 so that entire record gets vacuumed - maybe longer<br /> }<br /> exit: // just a marker so the abort button has somwhere to go<br /> AbortClean(); // same routine whether done with the cycle or aborting the cycle<br /> } <br /><br /> <br /> //subroutine to end cleaning cycle - lifts and parks tonarm<br /> void AbortClean() {<br /> for (poslift = 0; poslift <= 90; poslift += 1) { // goes from 0 degrees to 90 degrees<br /> // in steps of 1 degree<br /> myservolift.write(poslift); // lift tonearm<br /> delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position<br /> }<br /> delay(500);<br /> digitalWrite(relv, HIGH);<br /> delay(3000);<br /> for (posmove; posmove >= 0; posmove -= 1) { // goes from 'posmove' to 0 degrees<br /> myservomove.write(posmove); // move tonarm to park position<br /> delay(30); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position<br /> }<br /> for (poslift = 90; poslift >= 0; poslift -= 1) { // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees<br /> myservolift.write(poslift); // lower tonearm to park<br /> delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position <br /> }<br /> digitalWrite(relm, HIGH); // HIGH turns off turntable motor relay <br /> digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn LED OFF<br /> status = 0;<br /> }<br /><br /><br /><br />void loop() {<br />val = digitalRead(inPin); // read input value<br /> if (val == HIGH ) { // check if the input is LOW (button pressed)<br /> delay(15);<br /> CleanRoutine();<br /> } <br />}</i></b></blockquote>
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<br />
...enough code...<br />
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<br />
Parts:<br />
- Arduino Uno (Redboard)<br />
- power supply for Arduino<br />
<br />
- 2 servos (I used very small metal gear ones)<br />
- Hobbypark 25pcs Adjustable Pushrod Connector Linkage Stoppers D1.3mm (Amazon)<br />
- Excelity® 2 Channel DC 5V Relay Module for Arduino (Amazon)<br />
<br />
- 80 RPM 120 VAC Brevel Gearmotor 5-1572 (ebay)<br />
- uxcell 10mm to 10mm Bore Brass Robot Motor Wheel Coupling Coupler w Tight Screws<br />
<br />
- Thomas 2450AE44 Oil Free Compressor- Vacuum Pump 115 V 2-3 CFM (eBay)<br />
- 70-031 Replacement Tip For Desoldering Pump (from Parts Express)<br />
-<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Gudebrod Fishing Rod Winding thread Nylon Size D, Dark Blue 246. (ebay)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></span>- Winters
PFQ Series Stainless Steel 304 Dual Scale Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge, <br />
30"Hg Vacuum/kpa, 2" Dial Display, 1/8" NPT Back Mount (Amazon...didn't need to be liquid)<br />
-
2 of Fitting Pipe Bulkhead NPT 1/2" Male to 1/4" Female Adapter Brass (Amazon)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b><code></code></b></span><br />
- ADAM TECHNOLOGIES IEC-GS-1-100 Power Entry Module Unfiltered
Male 3 Position,<br />
Switch/Fuse Straight, 1.5" (bulkhead power with switch and fuse) (Amazon)<br />
- 2' length of 1/16" heatshrink tubing (Amazon)<br />
<br />
- various odds and ends plumbing, wiring, screws etc...<br />
- some wood for box<br />
- donor Sony PS-LX250H Turntable (eBay)<br />
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<br />
Links<br />
<br />
<a href="http://secret-sound-labs.net/wash.htm" target="_blank">http://secret-sound-labs.net/wash.htm</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://ssl.best-picture-point.de/wash.htm" target="_blank">Different source of same page</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fssl.best-picture-point.de%2Fwash.htm&edit-text=&act=url" target="_blank">Same links translated</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pisshead.net/ls/" target="_blank">http://www.pisshead.net/ls/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pisshead.net%2Fls%2F&edit-text=&act=url" target="_blank">Same link translated</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=9217.0" target="_blank">https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=9217.0</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=843.0">https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=843.0</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15910" target="_blank">https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15910</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=108431.0">https://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=108431.0</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/thread-buffer-rcm-i-the-works.204450/">http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/thread-buffer-rcm-i-the-works.204450/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqll7_J63G0" target="_blank"> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqll7_J63G0</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gr7bXNiiEnM" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gr7bXNiiEnM</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbUDuHhT10w" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbUDuHhT10w</a><br />
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bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-10792801390172350862018-04-13T18:20:00.001-05:002018-12-29T07:10:24.535-06:00Allstar Node using Baofeng BF-888s, a RIM-Lite, and a Raspberry Pi. If you don't know what an Allstar Node is...join the club. I went from hearing the term Allstar to building the node in a couple of months.<br />
<br />
Allstar is a way to link a repeater to the Internet...or more specifically for the user to link through an analog repeater via the Internet to another analog repeater.<br />
<br />
If you are familiar at all with Echolink...it is similar.<br />
<br />
If you have perused my other posts, you have seen me play with DMR, D-Star, and Hotspots to connect both of those Digital radio formats to the internet.<br />
<br />
Allstar is taking an analog radio and putting it on the internet. So in my case an analog HT connecting via RF through the Allstar node pictured below.<br />
<br />
The question is always WHY? I can't give you all the good reasons...but my local linked repeater system is using Allstar nodes to both link remote repeaters to the system...AND as a backup in case the RF link drops, or a repeater in the link chain gets locked out.<br />
<br />
One of the repeaters in the linked system has an Allstar node that is accessible to 'whitelisted' users. That means that even though I am out of range of the link system in my house, I can link in with an Allstar node and be on the linked repeater system.<br />
<br />
And tonight the NWS is using the linked repeater system for getting storm spotter info from remote locations...because I am linked in, I get to hear all the NWS transmissions.<br />
<br />
This article is about building the Allstar Node I am using.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbRxt2EMqHM0rTyqBk_PN9cfRL0W2y4iAeuEXAr0eHaStrTD8cT2B8a6elfHPv5kOmBWxoWitikjsKgUbBp5EBQPKTR1Xzt5v1f_vRTcW6iOhkqDfFua5DAymT29_8-WXdbW1h9oWyjJz/s1600/IMG_4972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbRxt2EMqHM0rTyqBk_PN9cfRL0W2y4iAeuEXAr0eHaStrTD8cT2B8a6elfHPv5kOmBWxoWitikjsKgUbBp5EBQPKTR1Xzt5v1f_vRTcW6iOhkqDfFua5DAymT29_8-WXdbW1h9oWyjJz/s640/IMG_4972.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
(Pictured...large battery, Pi, RIM-Lite, Baofeng BF-888s. also powering Baofeng using modified battery replacement car adapter, note I left the mic on the HT, and plug a 3.5mm plug into the mic socket to disable it.)<br />
<br />
<b>I would say the first thing to do if you plan on building an Allstar Node is to get an account and Node number at <a href="https://allstarlink.org/">https://allstarlink.org/ </a></b><br />
<br />
They usually have a good turn around, and are pretty good about responding to emails to fix problems.<br />
<br />
<br />
I won't duplicate the already well documented info out there...I will however fill in the blanks...<br />
<br />
I am using a Baofeng BF-888s UHF HT. This radio goes for $24 a pair on Amazon. It is a low power 16 channel preprogrammed radio...no display. You program it using the standard Baofeng programming cable.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://hamvoip.org/"><i><b>https://hamvoip.or</b></i>g/</a> has full documentation on the radio mods and software downloads for the Pi.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGAGvWaofEgZqB0C-WeRtiFsEXzF90uUp32PwxR8CyxCHWYod6FNA-gAk_z5dEg7_ZRHWENxauSPkYItYhqkL_hduXzy22YPEjrywFWquNDB2ubsnL5QOolsLlIDP8ntAwjuohvvVSS13/s1600/IMG_4974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGAGvWaofEgZqB0C-WeRtiFsEXzF90uUp32PwxR8CyxCHWYod6FNA-gAk_z5dEg7_ZRHWENxauSPkYItYhqkL_hduXzy22YPEjrywFWquNDB2ubsnL5QOolsLlIDP8ntAwjuohvvVSS13/s320/IMG_4974.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
(this one has a variable resistor on the RX output, for troubleshooting a problem I didn't have...)<br />
<br />
Once you have the radio modded (you need audio from TX and RX, a COS input, and a connection to the HTs PTT circuit.) you need a way for the Pi to talk to it. There are two ways, home brew and commercial. I elected for commercial (but I do have the parts for homebrewing it).<br />
<br />
I am using the <i><b><a href="http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/usb-rim-lite.html" target="_blank">RIM-Lite by Repeater Builder </a></b></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn_GHG8sFkY0zzQPnGV_71Z4SgxSZJ3972iisz_yVj7vR_lesWX_Vn-GTSTQ4icv3-Juao3pkqBn-Lx6KCvIc-btMwDCxtSG0aBK6_8hKWvatD0rvDWZXynDFaIxzfuz021Y1KKDx898a/s1600/IMG_4973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn_GHG8sFkY0zzQPnGV_71Z4SgxSZJ3972iisz_yVj7vR_lesWX_Vn-GTSTQ4icv3-Juao3pkqBn-Lx6KCvIc-btMwDCxtSG0aBK6_8hKWvatD0rvDWZXynDFaIxzfuz021Y1KKDx898a/s640/IMG_4973.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
$50 USB plug in board with DB-9 connector...and even includes the unpopulated male connector for attaching to the modded radio.<br />
<br />
Finally you need a Raspberry Pi. <br />
<br />
There is a good image available, but the hard part is understanding the software.<br />
<br />
I will make a new post about the software part.<br />
<br />
Note: Allstar uses DTMF tones to connect and disconnect and do other admin items...so I am using an HT with a keypad to punch in the codes...I will cover that later also. <br />
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-43308328132684424632018-01-20T13:00:00.000-06:002018-01-20T22:25:21.593-06:00Pi-Star. Software for DVMega on Raspberry PiEver since I first installed the DVMega on a Raspberry Pi, I have gone through many iterations of software...mostly because software was just being created at the same time I was trying it.<br />
<br />
First I tried installing the packages myself on Raspian. It worked, but was very kludgy to install, start, operate and update.<br />
<br />
Next I started downloading premade images...again from many sources, (Westernstar, Maryland D-star, DMR-Utah, etc) each more polished than the last. I was very happy with the package from KB5RAB...(apparently the link I had is no longer valid...not sure of it's status)<br />
<br />
Anywho, I heard of another DVMega image for the Pi called Pi-Star, from <a href="https://www.pistar.uk/" target="_blank"><b>Pi-Star UK</b></a>. I immediately liked this software package because it was so polished.<br />
<br />
<b>Pi-Star</b> can admin DMR, D-Star, YSF (Fusion), and P25...I don't know if they are all 100% functional right now, but DMR, and D-Star are for sure.<br />
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The biggest problem with Pi DVMega software packages is the ability to administrate them...you either SSL command line in, or VNC into the Pi. Both still leave you with some effort to change the settings you want...starting with the challenge of finding the Pi on a new network, or getting it logged into your hotel wifi etc.<br />
<br />
So, Pi-Star boots up with a webserver running and advertises itself on the network as <b><i>pi-star.local</i></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg271xH_2rJIR0Cu4fcHt6ZrI34zBeu3YilAFQStm6h2M0tDWG0x6Ccv9sg8Ew8yrZvfEiIvTPvW_jrN5-t8_JYap4KqrIb4zvceG-0nNtD4HY_VC6blWLkQ65cPO8pnmnjtXAZgFJ04Sz5/s1600/pistar4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="1059" height="617" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg271xH_2rJIR0Cu4fcHt6ZrI34zBeu3YilAFQStm6h2M0tDWG0x6Ccv9sg8Ew8yrZvfEiIvTPvW_jrN5-t8_JYap4KqrIb4zvceG-0nNtD4HY_VC6blWLkQ65cPO8pnmnjtXAZgFJ04Sz5/s640/pistar4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You point your web browser to <b><i>pi-star.local</i></b>, and you have the main screen, from there you can monitor on the dashboard, or dig into the system with other menu options.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfdIcI8xHaVqBNn7kzbNFh8SMmI96WAWgPP8smehmLk4n08Zof_qCxvKkpwZW4WoUmiCsswsGBxD5Roo_4xFWzFCU-NIVE1NPMDuO4HARNU0JLNFp7zymWravlJllPX6oUbUlrvVH30hy/s1600/pistar1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="1171" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfdIcI8xHaVqBNn7kzbNFh8SMmI96WAWgPP8smehmLk4n08Zof_qCxvKkpwZW4WoUmiCsswsGBxD5Roo_4xFWzFCU-NIVE1NPMDuO4HARNU0JLNFp7zymWravlJllPX6oUbUlrvVH30hy/s640/pistar1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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INCLUDING, setting up the wifi and permanently saving the setting, or deleting the particular wifi connection.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdYu3rZf285Rv3IKORLzRVMxKaAC6dd_gIzHDR7pjjUpyUtENeDNXqdBIgSCle8jeiUncJlBtq19X11Jfl5JDvkUid64BNmFX7VQP6OlBGig7Jh2N3Rrcg70-BOmV2VymO43RvUng3xc1/s1600/pistar2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="1025" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdYu3rZf285Rv3IKORLzRVMxKaAC6dd_gIzHDR7pjjUpyUtENeDNXqdBIgSCle8jeiUncJlBtq19X11Jfl5JDvkUid64BNmFX7VQP6OlBGig7Jh2N3Rrcg70-BOmV2VymO43RvUng3xc1/s640/pistar2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, all well and good, but what about at a hotel or other area? It will be a bit more challenging at a hotel where you log into the wifi via a web page...probably have to share it off your computer...<br />
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...but for a regular open network...<br />
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So here is my scenario this weekend. I am in a hotel room, with the open wifi, and need to get my Dvmega on it. I plug my laptop ethernet (acutally usb dongle in my case) into the Raspberry Pi eithernet port. I wait a bit, and see "<b>PI-STAR</b>" as an item on the local network...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rutHaCYBHU8lozGA6-vdLWBlwIHV4fH4JFcB3jQiqIuAw3OjM7_EZNF19-O0lm2zfhcSWh9UlzBxTIzks2x4f1k6hR9Ubn7C-lMhk5tV5sgvmDtL-vJ4arPEuhGTqjI8wCYjXz3iu9dd/s1600/pistar3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="437" data-original-width="1033" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rutHaCYBHU8lozGA6-vdLWBlwIHV4fH4JFcB3jQiqIuAw3OjM7_EZNF19-O0lm2zfhcSWh9UlzBxTIzks2x4f1k6hR9Ubn7C-lMhk5tV5sgvmDtL-vJ4arPEuhGTqjI8wCYjXz3iu9dd/s640/pistar3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...from there I just type <b><i>pi-star.local</i></b> into the browser, and I am in.<br />
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<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-7058669460282242017-12-23T12:27:00.000-06:002017-12-23T12:27:49.812-06:00Digital Loggers PLDuino Customizable PLC (sold by Adafruit among others)If you just wondered onto this page, let me explain...<br />
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A PLC is a Programmable Logic Controller...according to the Wiki, it is an industrial, ruggedized controller.<br />
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OK.<br />
<br />
It is more simple to explain that in this case the <a href="http://www.digital-loggers.com/plc.html" target="_blank">PLDuino</a> is a heavy duty package consisting of an Arduino Mega processor, wifi, SD card, touchscreen, onboard relays, and opto-isolated digital inputs, and protected analog inputs.<br />
<br />
So if you are familar with Arduino boards...consider this one on steroids will all the bells and whistles.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/3418-00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/3418-00.jpg" title="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3418" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3418">https://www.adafruit.com/product/3418</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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SO WHY?<br />
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It depends...<br />
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Actually in my case...the reason I bought one... is if you go back a few entries you will read about the Arduino controller for a Halloween display. I programmed the Arduino, built a relay controller board and tucked it all into a case. Biggest issue was that I now needed more relay controls...I need to be able to externally illuminate the display with some kind of spotlight. So I would probably have to build another Arduino setup, or try to get some kind of I2C running...<br />
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<br />
Well this board already has multiple 10A relays built in. AND all the other things.<br />
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LINKS:<br />
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<a href="http://www.digital-loggers.com/plc.html">http://www.digital-loggers.com/plc.html</a><br />
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<a href="https://github.com/digitalloggers/PLDuino">https://github.com/digitalloggers/PLDuino</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.digital-loggers.com/plcsw.html">http://www.digital-loggers.com/plcsw.html</a><br />
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<a href="https://nodemcu.readthedocs.io/en/master/en/modules/wifi/">https://nodemcu.readthedocs.io/en/master/en/modules/wifi/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/esp8266-thing-hookup-guide/installing-the-esp8266-arduino-addon">https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/esp8266-thing-hookup-guide/installing-the-esp8266-arduino-addon</a><br />
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<br />
I don't think I will add to much to this entry...just some documentation for my implementation...<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is the first piece...the PLDuino comes loaded with a demo package that shows off all the features. The one that really surprised me was the WIFI AP and web server control.<br />
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The machine sets up an AP and you can log into it...the very simple web page that you open has among other things, buttons to control the onboard relays...so out of the box, remote relay control.<br />
<br />
I am definately going to build my setup with this starting point...so I started digging through the .ino files that you can download from github (including the exact demo that comes installed) . The one thing I couldn't figure out was the wifi. It has an AP name, password, and IP address at boot...but I was trying to find out where that info is hidden.<br />
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Short notes... <br />
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WIFI first:<br />
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<i>btnWIFI </i>calls<i> MODE_WIFI </i> (in <b>select_mode.ino</b>)<br />
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<i>case MODE_WIFI </i>calls<i> testWiFi()</i> (in <b>plduino_firmware.ino</b>)<br />
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<b>test_esp8266</b> (ESP8266 is the wifi radio module) initializes the wifi.<br />
<br />
ok, so how do you adjust anything...well in another folder in the PLDuino github download is one called ... wait for it... <b>ESP8266</b>.<br />
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Inside that folder is a lot of stuff...but the top items are some <b>.lua</b> files, and the <b>.html</b> file the demo webserver uses.<br />
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<b>init.lua</b> has the wifi settings...that through some googleing...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://nodemcu.readthedocs.io/en/master/en/modules/wifi/" target="_blank">HERE are the docs</a>...so all the changes to if it an access point, or if it logs into a network, or what IP address it has, is dealt with in <b>init.lua </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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Display next:<br />
<br />
Touchscreen stuff is pretty easy to find, but note the .bmp images displayed are stored on the SD card...including the touchscreen overlays (or underlays?)<br />
<br />
Again, that stuff comes in the github download in a folder labeled...SD. Two good starting images are <b>slash.bmp</b>, which has the 3 touch points main menu...and <b>relays.bmp</b> which has 6 touch points and a return to previous menu touch point.<br />
<br />
<br />
To do:<br />
<br />
I will probably use one or both of those <b>.bmp</b> files for my project...so I will need to look at the associated .<b>ino</b> files...luckily it mostly seems very well documented, so I will probably simply edit the demo, and leave everything intact.<br />
<br />
I am not sure how the wifi part is handled, as far as the .lua files...so more TBD.bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-69532025332144492542017-11-20T15:10:00.000-06:002017-11-20T15:10:25.469-06:00Some Dreamcatcher Single Board Computer hardware info<a href="http://radionerds.com/index.php/DreamCatcher" target="_blank">The docs are limited</a>...some basic questions are assumed to be common knowledge, I post stuff as I figure it out...<br />
<br />
I took a photo of the SBC and ID'd the important parts, and what they are for.<br />
<br />
I will say this is a single core Arm7 (Raspberry Pi Zero...or early RPi2) and built in RTL-SDR with 1.5Ghz LNA and +5v bias tee capability...software controllable.<br />
<br />
The Raspberry Pi3 is MUCH faster and more capable of a computer. However the RTL-SDR on this board is very accurate and very compatible with all the software I have thrown at it.<br />
<br />
It will run everything but SpyServer (Airspy, SDR# folks). Because it is a slower processor, it doesn't run very hot. In my opinion still a very useful board...I wonder what it would cost to remake it using the quadcore ARM7 that the RPi3 uses.<br />
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Anyway, here are the important connections...<br />
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<br />
Notes:<br />
<br />
I can't tell if the switch (<b>SW_FACTORY</b>) between the USB ports and the power switch is used for anything...or how it is addressed.<br />
<br />
Just up from the power switch, just up from <b>LED11/AGP3</b> is a solder point marked <b>LIPO_BAT</b>.<br />
<br />
The DIP switches above that are labeled <b>PD3</b> and <b>AUTO_BOOT</b>...mine are in the up position, and it always auto boots when power is applied.<br />
<br />
Just behind <b>SW_FACTORY</b> are two pins labeled <b>CHG-IN</b> ...makes you think that goes with the <b>LIPO_BAT</b> connector...and next to that is a <b>CHGLED</b> led.<br />
<br />
From the docs, apparently you can hook up a OTG USB cable to the board and plug it into your computer, the DC will boot, and you will have terminal access through a comm port.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is an unpopulated <b>USB1</b> at the top of the board.<br />
<br />
The populated USB slots at the upper left, start with <b>USB2/WIFI</b> So apparently the wifi dongle is meant to plug in there. Next two are labeled <b>USB3</b> and <b>USB4</b><br />
<br />
<br />
To the right, below the RF cans is <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>SPI2</b></span> with 5 unpopulated pins labeled<br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"> MOSI, MISO, CS0, CLK</span>, <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">GND</span><br />
<br />
Below that is IC2 interface <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>TWI2</b> </span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">unpopulated</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"> GND, 3V3, SCK, SDA</span><br />
<br />
Then <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>UART1</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"> GND, RX, TX, 3V3</span><br />
<br />
Just left of the <b>LED9/PWR</b> is an unpopulated <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>JTAG</b></span> connector. <br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">RESET_N, GND,TD0, TCK, TMS, TO1, 3V3</span><br />
<br />
Finally at bottom right is <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>SPI1</b></span> with<br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">MOSI, MISO, CS0, CLK, GND</span><br />
<br />
Very bottom has GPIO connectors.<br />
<br />
<br />
Obviously most of the parts are software controllable...if you can find some documentation for it.bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-33559160976275435052017-11-19T08:13:00.002-06:002017-11-19T08:14:46.647-06:00Dreamcatcher SBC inital setup...and image creation.As I experiment with th RTL portion of this board, I find that some of the software is incompatible with others...<br />
<br />
So I spend a lot of time setting up from clean...then I make an image of that basic setup so I don't have to start from scratch...or so I thought.<br />
<br />
I found out that my 'basic' image was a later version with a radio app installed.<br />
<br />
So I made another fresh one.<br />
<br />
Here is my process to make MY basic setup...(I use Windows)<br />
<br />
-------------<br />
<br />
Download Dreamcatcher Armbian image (currently Jessie linux) and write to SD card.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://radionerds.com/index.php/DreamCatcher">http://radionerds.com/index.php/DreamCatcher</a> This page has some instructions and documentation...and links to image downloads.<br />
<br />
Write to SD card (I use<a href="https://etcher.io/" target="_blank"> Etcher</a> for this)<br />
<br />
Stick in DC (inboard card slot...not the one at the corner 'SD0_OS') and boot. If it doesn't power up when you plug in power, then press and hold the power button at corner.<br />
<br />
You will need a USB to Ethernet adapter until your wifi is setup.<br />
<br />
I have <a href="https://www.anker.com/products/variant/3-Port-USB-3.0-Hub-with-Ethernet-converter/A7522012" target="_blank">this one from Anker</a>.<br />
<br />
Figure out the IP address to the USB ethernet adapter, and use <a href="http://www.putty.org/" target="_blank">Putty</a> to login.<br />
<br />
At first boot, there are no accounts other than root.<br />
<br />
Login is <b><i>root</i></b> and password is <b><i>1234</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
It will welcome you to Outernet and direct you to change the password, then create a user and password (I didn't fill out any of the name etc stuff).<br />
<br />
(At this point I recommend logging out, and logging back in with your newly created username for the rest of the install. Most other install docs assume you are root, but some of the software needs to be installed by a non root user...so my docs assume you are logged in as the non root user.)<br />
<br />
First there is a note in the RadioNerds docs that later versions of Armbian can 'brick' the device (doing an update)...I haven't noticed that yet, but here is what they recommend. (puts the Kernal version on hold)<br />
<br />
<b><i><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">sudo apt-mark hold linux-dtb-next-sunxi linux-headers-next-sunxi linux-image-next-sunxi linux-firmware-image-next-sunxi
</span></i></b><br />
<br />
Next I do the updates.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get update</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get upgrade</i></b></span><br />
<br />
Now I activate and setup the WiFi.<br />
<br />
<b><i><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">sudo nmtui</span></i></b><br />
<br />
It is pretty straight forward, you probably have to run it a few times to get it set up...you need to EDIT and ACTIVATE a connection.<br />
<br />
At this point I reboot, with the USB to ethernet dongle disconnected, and make sure the WiFi setup is still there...sometimes it isn't...or maybe I am just impatient...<br />
<br />
Now for me, I want a VNC and need a web browser installed (neither are on this barebones image).<br />
<br />
For the Browser...(I used Konqueror because I couldn't get Chromium to install)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get install konqueror</i></b></span><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
For the VNC...<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get install task-lxde-desktop</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get install xfonts-base</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get install tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<br />
Now set up the VNC<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<br />
It will tell you to set a password, and shouldn't have any errors.<br />
<br />
Now I need the VNC to start every time it boots...<a href="https://incoherentmusings.wordpress.com/2016/04/25/setting-up-vnc-server-on-raspberry-pi-to-autostart-on-reboot/" target="_blank">this is where I got</a> the info.<br />
<br />
Create and edit this file...<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo sudo /etc/init.d/tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<br />
add the following to the file (cut and paste). Note halfway down where you ID the VNCUSER put in the username you made, or current username on the Dreamcatcher...I only have one user, so I put that one down.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>#!/bin/sh</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>### BEGIN INIT INFO</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Provides: tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Required-Start: $syslog</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Required-Stop: $syslog</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Default-Start: 2 3 4 5</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Default-Stop: 0 1 6</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Short-Description: vnc server</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Description:</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>#</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>### END INIT INFO</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># /etc/init.d/tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i># Set the VNCUSER variable to the name of the user to start tightvncserver under</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>VNCUSER='YOURLOGINNAMEHERE'</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>case "$1" in</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>start)</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>#Change the display number below. The connection port will be 5900 + display #</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>su $VNCUSER -c '/usr/bin/tightvncserver :1'</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>echo "Starting TightVNC server for $VNCUSER"</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>;;</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>stop)</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>pkill Xtightvnc</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>echo "Tightvncserver stopped"</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>;;</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>*)</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>echo "Usage: /etc/init.d/tightvncserver {start|stop}"</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>exit 1</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>;;</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>esac</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>exit 0</i></b></span><br />
<br />
And to save out of Nano hold the <b>CTRL</b> key and press <b>o</b> . To exit, <b>CTRL-x</b><br />
<br />
Now set some permissions...<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo chmod 755 /etc/init.d/tightvncserver</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo update-rc.d tightvncserver defaults</i></b></span><br />
<br />
Now test that your editing works...of course if you are already running the VNC it will tell you that, but shouldn't have any errors.<br />
<br />
<span style="white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo /etc/init.d/tightvncserver start</i></b></span></span><br />
<br />
Of course at this point, you should reboot and make sure everything works.<br />
<br />
If the VNC won't start...maybe you will see a reason here...(in my case I didn't change the VNCUSER in the file above)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>nano /home/{your login}/.vnc/dreamcatcher:1.log</i></b></span><br />
<br />
<br />
Now I shut down the Dreamcatcher pull the SD card out, and put it in your computer.<br />
<br />
Make a copy of the image, I use <a href="https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/" target="_blank">Win32DiskImager</a>.<br />
<br />
If you only have one flash drive plugged in, it will automatically show at the 'Device'.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKx6_aL3LsmgcRFGx0nhOvgOidpSKgdMHX4CVQSBP-P5wGy5t9-dL6pmkBvZarp8A2f8SWg3M9DrN7l1YLDMgZv4XuV8ofJPU8jyPZiYnIZP1RKhwHbySDRYJC8iPK01D7PgTCoVeLjHU/s1600/win32diskimager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="213" data-original-width="421" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKx6_aL3LsmgcRFGx0nhOvgOidpSKgdMHX4CVQSBP-P5wGy5t9-dL6pmkBvZarp8A2f8SWg3M9DrN7l1YLDMgZv4XuV8ofJPU8jyPZiYnIZP1RKhwHbySDRYJC8iPK01D7PgTCoVeLjHU/s640/win32diskimager.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Click on the folder icon and select the directory and enter name to store the new image.<br />
<br />
Once you do that, you will see the 'Read' button is enabled...click it and in a few minutes you will have a new ready to run image.<br />
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-58060812733840486572017-11-12T07:15:00.000-06:002017-11-12T07:15:30.601-06:00You can skip this post...no, really...I was looking through the blocked comments on the Blogger.com spam filter...and some of it is so bizzare, I am sharing it here<br />
<br />
..obviously the point of all these comments are to add the link to their website...so they hammer all blogs with these comments hoping to spread their links... <br />
<br />
BTW, the Blogger filter strips all formatting and links from the comment, so that is why the strange characters I guess.<br />
<br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-47696276378204263122017-11-08T16:32:00.000-06:002017-11-08T16:32:26.261-06:00AV equipment rack.Back a few posts I noted the laserdisc addition to the pile...<br />
<br />
The house we moved into had a basic theater room, with everything wired into an equipment/storage room off the side at the back of the room.<br />
<br />
I added a 24"deep shelf at the bottom of the existing shelves and widened the one above it to 24" deep., and just stacked stuff there, and on the other shelves. It was a messy mess of wires, but it worked. However to do anything required a lot of maneuvering.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMMl1qwDI1Oj4Tt61BCOG_U_k1eNwS_wNRePHB1BefNJ33WOmFrM8Dz0DRdUdd4iahZQ4GiATCUvUO_wgGFFMtBAh8QSwyAGnkOZZJZ-3f3w-0vxawDYSJ1uvA4Kajybf1uKQPjdL3WSf/s1600/IMG_3687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMMl1qwDI1Oj4Tt61BCOG_U_k1eNwS_wNRePHB1BefNJ33WOmFrM8Dz0DRdUdd4iahZQ4GiATCUvUO_wgGFFMtBAh8QSwyAGnkOZZJZ-3f3w-0vxawDYSJ1uvA4Kajybf1uKQPjdL3WSf/s320/IMG_3687.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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(I didn't have a picture of the loaded shelf...consider yourself lucky)<br />
<br />
I wanted something more useful, so did a bunch of research...and found out about equipment racks.<br />
<br />
The one I settled on wasn't cheap, but made the most sense in my setup.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hX1j-mhyPj0SxB24FaNcgFS_w-z2OH05OqiLb-VrqRyLd0eQVt3CQknd617AaJhCDAmlCNJJkUvpYFZnAXSx5GSR56_9sFTr3QiA1OFnv901XhWMslKcR_Xp4xCzG_FF1HxcGDF086Z/s1600/IMG_3692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hX1j-mhyPj0SxB24FaNcgFS_w-z2OH05OqiLb-VrqRyLd0eQVt3CQknd617AaJhCDAmlCNJJkUvpYFZnAXSx5GSR56_9sFTr3QiA1OFnv901XhWMslKcR_Xp4xCzG_FF1HxcGDF086Z/s640/IMG_3692.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes the whole rack slides out...AND rotates! In the above pictures you can see the frame I built to mount the thing on...it has to be sturdy enough to hold all the equipment without ripping loose.<br />
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This rack was a 19" one (standard 19" wide shelves) like these...I ended up using one full depth shelf, the rest were these type shelves.<br />
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Here is the first filled rack...I have since rearranged it.<br />
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I continued to build out the rest of the enclosure...the idea was to make it look nice and be functional. You can see were I widened the shelf just above the rack...I used on of the old shelves, and routed the back so it tucked in nicely with the bull nose shelf behind it.<br />
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Oh yea, the walls are scewed, like a trapezoid...so I had to square the center from the back wall, and gave the shelves a slight taper to they fit right in.<br />
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I reused a lot of material that came out of the original shelves, partially to be frugal, partially so the styling would match what was already there.</div>
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So in the above picture I used the original shelves, then added a piece of plywood to make them deep enough. You can also see where now there is trim, and the gap at the left of the rack is filled.<br />
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Now backtracking a bit...I wanted the wiring to be somewhat orderly, out of the way, yet serviceable. The rack takes care of most of that, but I knew there would be times I needed more access. So, the shelves come out, the back panel comes out, and if necessary the right side of the equipment rack comes out.<br />
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So far I have already pulled the shelves and back panel to run some wire.<br />
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Now to the guts.<br />
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It is actually not bad for the first attempt...but all the cables were 6' to 12' long and so I had large coils...I am slowly removed all the long ones and puttin up ones that are just right.<br />
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Power is another issue, There were originally no plugs back there...so I wired into the one that I did have in the closet, and mounted two surge protectors back there...I don't have a power conditioner, but I do have a space to mount one.<br />
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You can see that the back of the rack has a stationary piece to tie all your cables into...then bind them together up high so they have somewhere to go when the rack is pushed back, signal wires are run on the opposite side of the rack.<br />
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And finally, the 'completed' working setup.<br />
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<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-41006229377589726782017-11-07T23:57:00.001-06:002017-11-07T23:57:48.396-06:00Outernet Dreamcatcher single board computer...with built in rtl-sdrLike most people in this electronics hobby...I don't have near enough crap laying around.<br />
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So I read on the internets that <a href="https://store.outernet.is/products/dreamcatcher-single-board-computer-kit-v2-03" target="_blank">Outernet</a> was selling their SBC with built in RTL-SDR for $39...so of course I had to get one.<br />
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<a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/0935/products/IMG_3171_2048x2048.JPG?v=1501628827" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/0935/products/IMG_3171_2048x2048.JPG?v=1501628827" title="https://store.outernet.is/products/dreamcatcher-single-board-computer-kit-v2-03" width="320" /></a></div>
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Specifically this board was set up to listen to L-band.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><b><a href="https://gizmodo.com/what-is-the-outernet-and-is-it-the-future-of-the-intern-1659647614" target="_blank">Outernet's goal is to provide free access to content from the web through geostationary and Low Earth Orbit satellites.</a></b></span><br />
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So it is a byproduct that this board can listen from 24Mhz to 1.5Ghz.<br />
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Let us begin...<br />
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For those of you (like me) used to Raspberry Pi images and support...well...<br />
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<a href="https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTrqcGDjRKml1Ntzk5jGIx60yDdRDh1DqJEvZBS0eBnGSJLmSZAfQ" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="300" src="https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTrqcGDjRKml1Ntzk5jGIx60yDdRDh1DqJEvZBS0eBnGSJLmSZAfQ" /></a></div>
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You can download a couple of different images but they are extremely bareboned...so expect to install a lot of packages to get things done.<br />
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Luckily, there are some <a href="https://docs.outernet.is/" target="_blank">basic instructional page</a>s set up that can at least get you started. <a href="http://forums.outernet.is/t/dreamcatcher-setup-for-beginners/3613" target="_blank">And a lot of</a> support<a href="http://forums.outernet.is/" target="_blank"> on their forum</a>.<br />
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However let me say that the hardware itself is much more capable than the pi, dual antennas, dual SD slots, 3 or so USB slots, and even a switch to power it on...in addition when you issue the shutdown command in linux it actually powers off...and there is a hardware button to power it on.<br />
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Let me warn you, that the board has no built in network or video. So your admin will be remote. The basic image lets you SSH in, but they only include a wifi USB dongle...so you need to supply a USB ethernet dongle to set up everything else (<strike>and so far I can't get the wifi dongle to work</strike>).<br />
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So my workflow was to first download the <a href="https://archive.outernet.is/images/" target="_blank">Armbian image</a>. (for the record, during my setups...I re-imaged this file about 5 times until I got it working the way I wanted)<br />
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Btw, unlike much hardware...the Dreamcatcher calls itself the Dreamcatcher on the network...so easy to find the IP address...I simply look at the router logs and make a permanent DHCP entry...what ever works best for you.<br />
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Next I did the usual updates, and <a href="https://docs.outernet.is/Howto%3a%20Seting%20up%20YAAC%20APRS%20Client.html" target="_blank">installed tightvncserver.</a><br />
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Then I made <a href="https://incoherentmusings.wordpress.com/2016/04/25/setting-up-vnc-server-on-raspberry-pi-to-autostart-on-reboot/" target="_blank">tightvncserver boot with the device</a>.<br />
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So now I had access to a GUI and SSH.<br />
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<strike>I have not yet made wifi work. </strike><br />
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BTW, there is no onboard wifi...however a wifi usb dongle was included.<br />
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Wifi was working as soon as I set it up...I just didn't realize I had to unplug the USB network card to use the wifi...unplugging the ethernet was not enough...or perhaps I am impatient...(it could go either way. )<br />
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For Wifi it is pretty simple. The Armbian image comes with a program called <b><i>nmtui</i></b><br />
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The usage is more simple than I realized...simply<br />
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<i><b>sudo nmtui</b></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8e5v_Vt9ehONvU2kzb3l0HBDJeJ2KXwnpkJg2WsskF5vEl0r7WMCKC2NwgTy_Eb-LWhQPw7fKvUDMhnaOQWqP2la5tZWoxOxPBVOSpAfFley_s4SQ6eG3wxK3BXUucMmGyNKUISiVZThyphenhyphen/s1600/putty2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="424" data-original-width="675" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8e5v_Vt9ehONvU2kzb3l0HBDJeJ2KXwnpkJg2WsskF5vEl0r7WMCKC2NwgTy_Eb-LWhQPw7fKvUDMhnaOQWqP2la5tZWoxOxPBVOSpAfFley_s4SQ6eG3wxK3BXUucMmGyNKUISiVZThyphenhyphen/s640/putty2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
You can do this in a Putty terminal, and you will still get a 'gui'.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_7kvsDHCzDzbzvUFYVvF9DjSWnS9GBGW_ccBvY6qfA7Ue_QRdiA037cOu5UlcW6tzRHGir3ljweHdesfQPda5Q1UYirF-1QHZ6p-RK8SWF-87NAjuZdbl6lCAVX4f_oCmwr6zauOOLOc/s1600/nmtui1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="424" data-original-width="675" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_7kvsDHCzDzbzvUFYVvF9DjSWnS9GBGW_ccBvY6qfA7Ue_QRdiA037cOu5UlcW6tzRHGir3ljweHdesfQPda5Q1UYirF-1QHZ6p-RK8SWF-87NAjuZdbl6lCAVX4f_oCmwr6zauOOLOc/s640/nmtui1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I won't go into wifi setup...it is very intuitive through this GUI... BTW the second screen is what you see when you select "Activate a connection" If your network shows up on the list, then attempt to Activate it...if it doesn't, then use the "Edit a connection" and add one.<br />
<br />
<br />
I tried a number of radio settings, but kept getting errors...however when I installed <a href="https://docs.outernet.is/Howto%3a%20Install%20OpenWebRX%20on%20Dreamcatcher.html" target="_blank">OpenWebRX</a>, it worked perfectly and is a real nice remote rtl-sdr setup. The Dreamcatcher is the server, and your other computer with web browser is the client. However the remote client is not able to change frequencies...you can only do that in the config settings...so far...<br />
<br />
Looks something like this...never mind the desk.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" gesture="media" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AgJtlh82QcI" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
But with that limitation...it is terrific!<br />
<br />
So, things to do...<br />
<br />
I want to get APRS igate running...<br />
<br />
I want to use YAAC...<br />
<br />
I want to use a different radio program...<br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFFQHrYJ6sA4kt2vefS4Ds2m4U55mAOPPz61jYdeWCYBvwYWi9QJBfunHHGKPmS5nScI2bro6FI2qx_1pbcCmhbVF80f2DQJVD-YYDAQFwpr8wHU2fEriRFPXbr7RpinBEUKrG9cTJgTB/s1600/ww2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFFQHrYJ6sA4kt2vefS4Ds2m4U55mAOPPz61jYdeWCYBvwYWi9QJBfunHHGKPmS5nScI2bro6FI2qx_1pbcCmhbVF80f2DQJVD-YYDAQFwpr8wHU2fEriRFPXbr7RpinBEUKrG9cTJgTB/s1600/ww2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-61112665159866078822017-10-27T14:06:00.001-05:002017-11-15T14:19:24.521-06:00Raspberry Pi and touchscreens...Updated for latest Raspian (Stretch)<br />
<br />
I have done a few other projects...that I might document in the future...<br />
<br />
But this one seemed particular useful for me.<br />
<br />
A very long time ago (mid 2000's) I bought a ~13" touchscreen panel with USB controller that I then stuffed into a Sharp display. I fiddled around with making it some kind of keyboard/mouseless interface. But at the time the winXP interface was flakey, and we were a long way from win10 tiles.<br />
<br />
So I kind of parked it off to the side.<br />
<br />
About 3 years ago we packed up and moved a few hours south...a year later I needed a VGA screen just to test some computer outputs...I looked for this monitor, but had no idea what box it ended up in or if I gave it to Goodwill.<br />
<br />
When we moved, a lot of things were tucked away in the 1car garage shop...Two large boxes were stacked in the corner. One was full of the wifes craft stuff...I assumed the bottom one was more of the same.<br />
<br />
Nope. The bottom one was full of pieces and parts, packed away on moving day 3 years ago. On top was this touchscreen modified monitor.<br />
<br />
I saw it and knew I wanted to mount a Raspberry Pi on the VESA mounts behind the monitor. But the big question was would the Pi access the USB touchscreen.<br />
<br />
I have a HDMI to VGA adapter that works perfectly so I hooked that up, and plugged the USB into the Pi, then fired it up. The display still worked perfectly...and the touchscreen was read by the Pi...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjj6YGnprgH7hcgB4PeJKgdZMg-dYigIOQRrvCXNS80z0wXItvH0L3tdCrFzE7DUJmLT6jZ1CJwkpOK-gjqLvWbeeK5kc1Ppl33zJinhkxKc4S0nPnCtb9Za3SC7tGe3ORPAlCFKsrb8h/s1600/IMG_4537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjj6YGnprgH7hcgB4PeJKgdZMg-dYigIOQRrvCXNS80z0wXItvH0L3tdCrFzE7DUJmLT6jZ1CJwkpOK-gjqLvWbeeK5kc1Ppl33zJinhkxKc4S0nPnCtb9Za3SC7tGe3ORPAlCFKsrb8h/s320/IMG_4537.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
(Note: read about the onscreen keyboard at the bottom of this post)<br />
<br />
BUT...the calibration was way out to lunch and reversed.<br />
<br />
A quick googling later and I found exactly what I needed, and my display interface (that shows up when you LSUSB) was even the same as the writeup.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://engineering-diy.blogspot.com/2013/01/adding-7inch-display-with-touchscreen.html?showComment=1394143831422#c28299083845892188232#c2829908384589218823" target="_blank">This is the entire write</a>up. But I only needed to do the following and now it is working perfectly!<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
The first test is if your touchpad reacts at all to your input...if it does (even if wrong) then skip to CALIBRATION section.<br />
<br />
With later versions of Jessie, and the new Stretch, not all touchpad drivers (well at least the one I needed) are not installed.<br />
<br />
So I had to do the following ,<a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=172025&p=1123456#p1205635" target="_blank">based on this forum entry</a>. <br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
Install Evdev.<br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<span style="background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.024); font-family: Monaco, "Andale Mono", "Courier New", Courier, mono; white-space: pre;"><b><i>sudo apt-get install xserver-xorg-input-evdev</i></b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.024); font-family: Monaco, "Andale Mono", "Courier New", Courier, mono; white-space: pre;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span>
<span style="font-family: Monaco, Andale Mono, Courier New, Courier, mono;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;">Then go to...</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Monaco, Andale Mono, Courier New, Courier, mono;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i>cd /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d</i></b></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">and list the files</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i>ls</i></b></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span>
Mine looked like this...<br />
<br />
<i>10-quirks.conf 10-evdev.conf 40-libinput.conf 99-fbturbo.conf</i><br />
<br />
The fix is to put the evdev.conf file after the libinput.conf file...the way to do that is...<br />
<br />
<i><b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">sudo mv 10-evdev.conf 45-evdev.conf</span></b></i><br />
<br />
then when you do an <span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i>ls</i></b></span> you get something like...<br />
<br />
<i>10-quirks.conf 40-libinput.conf 45</i><i>-evdev.conf </i><i> 99-fbturbo.conf</i><br />
<br />
Finally reboot that, and the touchscreen should now be working...just out of calibration.<br />
<br />
(In the calibration below one of the axis was reversed, when I did this on the Stretch install, they were not reversed)<br />
<br />
<br />
---------------CALIBRATION-----------------------------<br />
<br />
Calibration for the touchscreen(in Raspberry PI).<br />
Note: The next steps are performed in the Raspberry PI's Debian Wheezy. This is a method for calibrating the touchscreen which will work just for Xserver and Xserver based applications.<br />
<br />
Install xinput_calibrator.<br />
Install some dependencies:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>sudo apt-get install libx11-dev libxext-dev libxi-dev x11proto-input-dev</b></i></span><br />
<br />
Download xinput_calibrator somewhere in the Raspberry PI's folder structure.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>wget http://github.com/downloads/tias/xinput_calibrator/xinput_calibrator-0.7.5.tar.gz</b></i></span><br />
<br />
Unpack it and then navigate to the unpacked folder and then install it using:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>./configure</b></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>make</b></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>sudo make install</b></i></span><br />
<br />
After this step you should run xinput_calibrator(from Xserver terminal console: first startx then open console and then run it).<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>xinput_calibrator</b></i></span><br />
<br />
Follow the on screen instructions(touching some points on screen) and after calibration is complete you will receive a message like this:<br />
Calibrating EVDEV driver for "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController" id=8<br />
current calibration values (from XInput): min_x=1938, max_x=114 and min_y=1745, max_y=341<br />
<br />
Doing dynamic recalibration:<br />
Setting new calibration data: 121, 1917, 317, 1741<br />
<br />
<br />
--> Making the calibration permanent <-- p=""> copy the snippet below into ...</--><br />
<-- p=""><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span><i>
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "calibration"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
Option "Calibration" "121 1917 317 1741"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "1" (only needed if the axis is incorrect...0 if correct)<br />
EndSection</i><br />
<br />
For Raspbian you have to create a file:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><b>sudo nano /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/01-input.conf</b></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><br /></span>
Add in this file the content above(starting with Section "InputClass" line) and then save it(ctrl+O).<br />
<br />
Note:<br />
Please make sure that you don't have sections like<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
in other files from /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/ folder(highest number files are processed last, thanks to Jasmin).<br />
<br />
Now touchscreen should be calibrated and after reboot it will keep the settings.<br />
Once, I had to run xinput_calibration again in order to have the pointer to the desired points. You can update the numbers given by the xinput_calibration utility in the<br />
usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/01-input.conf file in order to have the best calibration at boot.<br />
</--><br />
<div>
<br />
<br />
------------------------------<br />
<br />
Onscreen keyboard.<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.024); font-family: "monaco" , "andale mono" , "courier new" , "courier" , "mono"; white-space: pre;"><i><b>sudo apt-get install matchbox-keyboard</b></i></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.024); font-family: "monaco" , "andale mono" , "courier new" , "courier" , "mono"; font-size: 12.1007px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
For some reason, sometimes the keyboard shows up in <span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;">MENU > ACCESSORIES</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;">This page describes how to display the icon using </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;">MENU > PREFERENCES. Main Menu Editor</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #242729; font-size: 15px;">In my case the Keyboard was already selected, I unselected it, re-selected it, and rebooted...then the icon showed up in the menu.</span></span></div>
bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8901646900648435569.post-84429593604640033652017-03-17T12:52:00.000-05:002017-03-17T13:09:39.913-05:00Communicating between multiple DVMegas or even OpenSpots on DMR without internet...revisited updated etc So the executive summary of this post is...<br />
<br />
-SharkRF OpenSpots can communicate to HBlink (previous post)<br />
-better install method for HBlink.<br />
<br />
<br />
As far as the Openspot...the latest firmware (I have a v1.1 model) <a href="https://www.sharkrf.com/products/openspot/fw/" target="_blank">srf-osp-1.1-0101.bin</a> improves the web interface and adds enough options to correctly link up to HBlink. <br />
(I will admit, I only have one radio so right now I have not done a reception test...but the DVMega shows the traffic from the Openspot). <br />
<br />
The Openspot manual shows how to do the settings...just point to the HBlink server, and use <b>Homebrew/MMDVM</b> <u>Connector</u>, and <b>MMDVM</b> <u>Protocol</u>.<br />
<br />
<br />
The following is a cut and paste from a fellow ham, Mark who spent a lot of hours making a good repeatable installation process. And in his setup, he runs HBlink on the same Pi that holds the DVMega...I am using a separate Pi.<br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18695">
This method
does not require the loading of any specific versions of any of the
components, which should allow it to continue to be usable in the
future, even as the components are updated.</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18696">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18479">
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18697">
Note:
I started with the latest 03/03/2017 raspbian release . . . even if you
aren't currently using this release, the very first "sudo apt-get" step
will actually update your RPi to the full equivalent of this release.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18698">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18699">
Note:
if you have previously loaded other utilities (MMDVMHost, HBlink, or
particularly ircddbgateway) on your RPi, you will need to edit any files
in the <u>/etc/apt/source.list.d/*</u> folder (other than the standard
raspi.list file . . . you can leave this one alone) & comment out
any uncommented lines (e.g. particularly the references to nh6z.org, but
also any others that may be present). The uncommented lines in these
files reference additional sources over & above those standard for
raspbian & will very likely prevent you from successfully fully
updating the raspbian OS on your RPi if they remain uncommented.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19729">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19730">
Here's the step-by-step that I followed to get HBlink installed & running:</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19730">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b><i>sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get dist-upgrade<br /><br /> cd /home/pi/Downloads<br /><br /> git clone http://github.com/n0mjs710/HBlink<br /><br /> git clone http://github.com/n0mjs710/dmr_utils<br /><br />sudo apt-get install python-dev libffi-dev libssl-dev python-pyparsing python-appdirs<br /><br />sudo pip install --upgrade pyOpenSSL pyparsing appdirs pyasn1 (that's digit one on the end of pyasn1)<br /><br />sudo easy_install bitstring<br /><br />sudo easy_install bitarray<br /><br />sudo easy_install Twisted<br /><br />sudo easy_install service_identity<br /><br />cd dmr_utils<br /><br />sudo python setup.py install<br /><br />cd ../HBlink<br /><br />cp hblink-SAMPLE.cfg hblink.cfg</i></b></span></div>
<br />
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19763">
<br />
<span id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18522">(edit the hblink.cfg file for the following:)</span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;"><br /><br />under [MASTER-1]<br /><br /> change PASSPHRASE: </b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>(</i></span><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">to m</span>atch brandmeister for convenience)</span></i><br /><br /><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">(passw0rd)</b><br /><br /><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;"> change PORT: </b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>(to match brandmeister for convenience)</i></span><br /><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">(62031)</b><br /><br /><br /><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">under [REPEATER-1]</b><br /><br /><b style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;"> change ENABLED: to False</b></span>
<br />
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19522">
<br />
Then,
to run HBlink, you can use the same "startup script" + "autostart"
method used for MMDVMHost.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19550">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19551">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19552">
Content of the <u>/home/pi/.config/autostart/HBlink.deskto</u>p file is as follows:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b>[Desktop Entry]<br /><br /> Type=Application<br /><br />Name=HBlink<br /><br />Exec=lxterminal --geometry=120x32 -e "/home/pi/start_hblink"<br /><br />StartupNotify=False</b></span></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18539">
<div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_19558">
<b><br /></b></div>
</div>
</blockquote>
Content of the <u>/home/pi/start_hblink</u> script is as follows<br />
<br />
(NOTE: in the command to kill HBlink, the character right after the "-9" & again at the very end of the command is a "back quote", which is typically somewhere to the left of the number "1" on most keyboards, whereas the character on either side of the "curly braces" after the "awk" command is a normal "single quote", usually located somewhere near the RETURN/ENTER key on most keyboards):<br />
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489766906112_18540">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b>kill -9 `ps -ef | grep -v grep | grep "hblink.py" | awk '{print $2}'`<br /><br />clear<br /><br />echo -n "sleeping 10 seconds before (re)starting HBlink."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />sleep 1<br /><br />echo "."<br /><br />clear<br /><br />cd /home/pi/Downloads/HBlink ; python hblink.py</b></span><br />
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In English, the command line to kill HBlink says to do the following (in this order):</div>
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1) [ps -ef] = get a list of all tasks that are running<br />
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2) [ps -ef | grep -v grep] = take the results from #1 & ignore any task that has the word "grep" in it<br />
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3)
[ps -ef | grep -v grep | grep "hblink.py"] = take the results from #2
& filter it down to only those tasks that contain the text
"hblink.py"<br />
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4)
[ps -ef | grep -v grep | grep "hblink.py" | awk '{print $2}'] = take
the results from #3 & print out the task ID number which is in the
second field (where fields are considered to be separated by a "space"
character by default)<br />
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5)
kill -9 `ps -ef | grep -v grep | grep "hblink.py" | awk '{print $2}'` =
execute the whole command string in #4, take the results from #4 (which
is a task ID) & hard kill that particular task ID, no matter what</div>
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<i>(If like Mark, you run HBlink on the same Pi that has the DVMega mounted then...)</i></div>
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<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489772501258_3759">
When running MMDVMHost & HBlink on the same RPi, you must configure <b>MMDVM.ini</b> as follows:</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">[DMR Network]</span></b></div>
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<span id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489772501258_3762" style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><b>Address=127.0.0.1</b></span></div>
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<i>(Normally that points toward the remote brandmeister or whatever server)</i></div>
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<span id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1489772501258_3765">I
tried using the RPi hostname in this setting, but in that case,
MMDVMHost does not fully complete the registration process with HBlink</span></div>
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Feel free to use this info however you see fit !! -Mark</div>
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bubba zanettihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13254622131809088044noreply@blogger.com0