How to get 3 times faster internet download speed...otherwise known as upgrading your router.

This will be quick.  I have Charter cable, and they have been advertising 60Mbps download speeds.  I really didn't pay attention to what I was getting vs what they advertised until a few days ago.

The only reason I did a speed test is to see if I had the minimum for 4K streaming (25Mbps down according to Netflix).

Well I only got 22Mbps down...and sometimes my standard Netflix buffered a bit.

So I spent some time on the phone with Charter, they did some tests and reprovisioning etc.   Still I got no higher than 22Mbps down.

I scheduled a tech to come to the house and check things out...

...then on a whim I googled 'router for 60mps'  and quickly found out that my old router was the bottle neck...

I had a WRT-54G running DD-WRT on it.  Apparently the 54G cannot handle anything higher than what I was getting.

And with a bit of further reading I found the Asus RT-N16 router  (about $70 at Amazon) could handle the speeds AND fully compatible with DD-WRT.

I followed the flashing directions and put on the VPN version (first you put on the basic version, then upgrade...just follow the directions)  There was a note that some people had to use IE to do the flashing.   I used FF for the initial DD-WRT install, but I had to use IE for all the settings and when I upgraded to the VPN version.

That definately solved my problem...I get more than 60Mbps down now.

MDSR BiLIF assembly

So quite a while ago I built the LIF circuit to take IF from my Yaesu radio and use it in a computer for SDR (computer controlled radio with waterfall features...all the bells and whistles).

The second part of the task is to build the BiLIF circuit.

LIF simply takes the IF and receives it.

BiLIF sends IF back to the radio...the BiLIF circuit uses the LIF board, so it is all in one TX/RX circuit.

The LIF came as a complete kit...just need to add power source, and the ability to connect to your IF source.

The BiLIF had some harder to procure parts...but I still needed to order a large number of components, and assemble the whole thing...the additional components were around $40 at Digikey.

 I had the parts that came in the kit spread out in this container. In this photo only an inductor, a relay and some connecting pins remain.


 

My stack of components were shipped like this from Digikey...To make my life easier, I used the component name from the parts list in the comment section as I added each part to my 'cart'.  i.e. 2k7.   I could more easily match it to the parts list.   Then when I received the stack of parts, I compared the part to the list and in marker listed the individual parts on the bags... i.e. R1, 7, 23, 42 (made up example)   You can see the labeling in the picture above.

I did a fourth of the board here before i took a break for the day...put in most of the supplied components.

 Mostly done...

Done sitting next to the modified LIF board.   Added a cap (luckily I ordered spares for the BILIF) .  Removed the power regulator, and added a jumper wire in place of it.

Note the cap laying on its side, the parts list calls for 2 low profile caps because they sit under the LIF board...One low profile cap fit nice...the other one was way to wide to fit, so I had to lay the normal cap over (again luckily I bought spares).  I think the other cap can lay over also, and you don't need a low profile cap.  (C31 and C33)

Here is the modified LIF board  Added a cap (luckily I ordered spares).  Removed voltage regulator and installed jumper wire...also added one more pin header.

Finished assembly with LIF board mated on top of the BiLIF board.


I have ordered some pin headers and wires to connect the board to the rest of my stuff...including the Asus Xonar U7 USB audio board.

Asus T100 Transformer Windows 10 upgrade quick notes

What.

I didn't really plan on making any input on this, but there has been so much written and spoken about the upgrade to 10, how to do it and security issues...so I had to comment.

I do not have the reference, but apparently the free Windows 10 upgrade for selected OSs requires an install over an existing installation...so that is how I did mine.

Where.

Background is I have a bone stock T100.  I moved files around and deleted some programs to give myself 7 gigs of space on the C: drive.  (I have a large microSD card for the D: drive)

It was running Win8/8.1 (I think it might have been 8 and I upgraded to 8.1...don't remember) preinstalled, and no OS key on the machine or on the box...so kind of hard to type one in (I won't get into software that gets those keys)

Why.

I did not like the 'metro' of 8.1...although as a tablet it was handy at times...depending on what apps you had. 

How.

So I used the toolbar prompt to upgrade to 10.  It downloaded some files, and started installing.   During the install it said I can always roll back to 8 and it did not ask if I wanted to migrate data.

Took maybe half hour to an hour to do the install, rebooted a few times during the install.

Now here is the part where you need to pay attention. 

SECURITY!

After the install is complete, it goes through the setup process, and asks a ton of questions (If you don't select default install).   The good news is you appear to have a lot of control over privacy and security...the bad news is it defaults to sharing everything, using all open wifi spots, sharing your location and browsing history with whoever, and probably some others I don't remember.  

The better news is you can say no to everything, and later on in the settings can easily turn some back on if you feel lucky.

The big news about sharing your wifi settings to your contacts has changed...the settings are different,  I did not see the same options that I read about.

Impressions.

I already much prefer 10 to 8.  The tablet interface is similar but a bit different...and BTW the 'metro' screen is not the default, but you can pull it up by selecting 'Tablet mode' on the right swipe menu.  (for those used to the 8 interface).

Overall feel is much tighter...I felt 8.1 still was a bit flakey...this one feels like it has a strong regular desktop mode, and the tablet mode (metro) also feels much tighter.

Software.

All my previously installed software, either desktop programs, or metro apps still work just fine...and they haven't moved.  (although the metro screen is a bit different).


Summary.

If you are running 8/8.1 hurry and do this upgrade!   I haven't upgraded 7 yet...I will probably do my 7 laptop first...but I don't yet see any downsides to upgrading it either...however if you like your 7, you might as well wait...but if you are on a tablet...upgrade.